View Full Version : Drag racing stock clutch question.

4th August 2005, 20:01
Getting ready to try my luck in the brackets with a 04 1200R stage one. Bike makes good torque(76) and HP(70). When I launch the bike I seem to have to use an extra effort on the clutch to keep the front end down and the bike moving forward (rear tire feels like its slipping a bit) but I feel like I'm torturing the crap out of the clutch. Will the stock clutch handle this abuse for any length of time? It seems to come out better using this approach as opposed to leaving at a lower RPM. I'm letting it go at 3000 on the street and dragging the clutch but if I just let it go without grabbing a little clutch the front goes way too skyward. I feel I'm using the clutch to spin the rear tire a bit (leaves rubber) and keep the front end down. Should I be looking for an aftermarket clutch or is the stock sportster clutch alright for what I'm doing? I have been told by the dealer that the clutch wear is not covered under warranty by H-D. The stock clutch seems fine as I write but I have concerns because of mileage,wear, and the fact I want to go racing. Is this a high maintenance item? If needed what would be a good replacement? Any help greatly appreciated. Not too many Harley drag racers in my area!

5th August 2005, 00:18
Stock clutch should handle it....provided it's adjusted correctly.....

I havn't looked at the part numbers on an 04 clutch but the trick with the pre 04's was to remove the middle dampner plate and put in 2 steels and 1 fibre and use the heavy SE or Barnett spring .. this WILL increase the life of the clutch.

The stock plates have a bit softer feel than the Barnetts aswell

5th August 2005, 02:22
get yourself a front end strap. right now your wheelie starts with the first few inches of fork travel...very little resistance. Strap the fork to get rid of that travel and now your motor has to pull up on the weight of the wheel...huge (legal) difference.
schnitz racing

5th August 2005, 06:47
straps are cheatin......next you'll be puttin trainer wheels on :D

I run as ridden to and from the race track... full street

5th August 2005, 06:54
awe crap, i gotta take 'em off??

9th August 2005, 19:13
Narley, The bike would leave better with the soft springs in front and the front end would drop at least two inches when I sit on it (185 lbs). When I changed to progressives now the bike only drops 1/2 to 3/4 inch when I sit on it and the front end stays up. Very stiff but real stable over 100 mph where before it was almost un-nerving above 100 (reason for changing springs). It seems to me the motor didn't have enough ass to overcome the energy lost in the front end travel before the spring change. Now it appears to me it takes less effort on the motor to wheelie. Maybe I should play with the spacers for the springs (PVC pipe). Wouldn't lowering the front with stiff springs be the same as dogging them down especially since it is a street machine. My real concern was toasting the clutch though. I also think I need to raise the rev limit as I can get all over it trying to catch 2nd gear. Mine comes in early about 5800. Also do you use the clutch for 2nd gear shift. I know you have much more power but leaving at 3000 it's all over 5800 by the time I pull 2nd it's hitting the limiter.

10th August 2005, 02:10
this year i dont clutch but last year i did. raise your rev limit. .

30th January 2006, 18:26
5800 rev limiter is stock
get se box and set it at 6500
if your not ready to shift by 5800 you need more practice
i use to launch at 5000 and shift at 5500 with forward controls
and a strap makes a big diff keeping the front down
with out it i would wheelie 12" all the time
Stock clutch will handle it....provided it's adjusted correctly.....