View Full Version : Ironhead Crankcase Help

21st October 2011, 13:45
I have my 73 XLH torn down completely after some years of sitting. One question that the service manual doesn't seem to answer. There is a bushing in the right side case where the roller bearing from the crankshaft rides. I think it is called the pinion shaft bushing in the manual. I am not sure it was installed correctly previously, since there are no set screws, and it looks like it might have spun a bit.

Anyway, it has a groove in the face of it, but I can't seem to tell which way the groove should be-facing up or down. If I put setscrews in, it has to be either up or down to get the notches on the set screws to line up.

Anyone else come across this, or know which way the bushing should go? Also, wondering what the interference on the OD of the bushing fit in the case should be-it seems a little loose to me.

I can post a pic if this isn't clear.

Thanks-any help appreciated, Mike

21st October 2011, 14:04
Yea, a clear picture would definitely help.

21st October 2011, 14:25
Yea, a clear picture would definitely help.


Welcome! to the IronHead forum.

ryder rick
21st October 2011, 15:45
Cases with the old style pump have a replaceable sleeve. If that sleeve has spun and is loose in the cases the cases should be repaired. Welded up and align bored to accept the sleeve with the proper press fit. The location of the sleeve is critical as if it is off center it will destructively disassemble the crank as it spins. There are very heavy loads on that sleeve and set screws will NOT hold it, don't even try. The set screws are there just to secure it from walking out not to mount it.

Bob F
21st October 2011, 16:11
Welcome to the XLForum.

21st October 2011, 16:48
The right case bushing is available in std., & .002", .005", & .010" oversizes.

ryder rick
21st October 2011, 16:55
The right case bushing is available in std., & .002", .005", & .010" oversizes.

Good to know, thanks. My old parts book only shows one number.

Are those aftermarket?

21st October 2011, 18:40
Are those aftermarket?
Yep. Eastern & Jim's. Jim's isn't available in .002"o.s..

21st October 2011, 21:31
Hi folks...I've done a few of these pinion shaft races and if it spun you'll have to go to the oversize. This stuff is easy if you have the equipment but challenging if you are forced to "cobble" it up. The race will need to be line honed/lapped with the left case. This not only helps center the race but trues it as well. The screws are called "dog" screws. They are in the parts catalog. I place the slot up (as I recall).

21st October 2011, 22:53
here is a pick of the race/srew and slot

22nd October 2011, 06:08
yeah the groove to the top.

heres what happens when the screws come out in service.

also a 73.

23rd October 2011, 01:47
Thank you Fergerburger-A Picture is worth a thousand words-slot facing up. That's the way I found it when I tore it down, but seemed to me that it might make more sense to face down (to drain oil,maybe?) It has about 0.002 interference with the case, which seems sufficient to hold it in place. Previous builder must have thought so, too-he didn't use the dog screws. (I will use them, but probably not go so far as to buy H-D parts for 10x the price of regular set screws.)

Anyway, thanks to those who pointed out the alignment issue. Ran a quick sweep with a boring bar, and both crank bearings are concentric, so I should be good to go. If I recall (been a while) the engine ran well. Main reason I had to take crank case apart was I dropped a piston pin retaining ring into the case while rebuilding the top end (and then cursed a bunch, and slapped myself in the forehead) so I had to take the bottom end apart to retrieve it. And if you're apart that far, might as well be thorough......

Thanks for the help, I'll check back, and hopefully be able to help someone else out. Hope to be able to post a pic when the thing is all said and done.

23rd October 2011, 01:49
also thanks dr. dick....good to get the same answer!

23rd October 2011, 16:57
those screws. agh

gonna be hard to find anything other then the stockers.
hd did not use std hardware for these.

12-24 thread.
dog point.
sloted for screwdriver.
full hard.

that hardness makes em break real easy at bottom of screw slot.

make sure that if they do work loose in service that they stay in thier holes.