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Rev C
5th May 2006, 00:26
Where is the stop light switch on an 04 for the front brake. The tail light works with the foot brake, but not when I pull the handle. Any ideas? I know...buy the service manual, I just havent gotten to the dealer...plus 58 bucks? I know it is worth it though...

oakies
5th May 2006, 00:29
Its right under the brake lever on the handlebars. Part of the lever itselfs pushues against the switch.

Albie1200
5th May 2006, 00:55
Did you ever remove the brake lever or master cylinder? The manual tells you to wedge something 5/16" in between the lever and the perch. The reason is the metal tab on the brake lever will mess up the brake light switch thats hidden in there. Ask me how I know:doh

Matt
5th May 2006, 01:32
Years ago I used to disable the front switch (when I had one on a scoot )but a LEO told me when he went past a mc in the other direction who didn't show brake lights but that was obviously going too fast he felt dissed and would give chase. I disconnected the front so I could use max ft brake while pulsing the rear to alert traffic. Now I don't. Not an issue w my XLCH.
Matt

Vegas1200C
5th May 2006, 02:04
The front switch is a real pain to deal with. There is a bracked with the turnsignal button on it that goes in of top of it and a wedge that I swear the manual says to "remove if it is still there". It should also be noted that it is a reverse switch. Out is on, in is off.

thunderpaw
5th May 2006, 02:25
I am a member of the "I broke the damn thing 'cause I didn't read the manual (and use the shim) first" club.

"Won't get fooled again." Who said that?

Kim

Moved On
5th May 2006, 02:48
This pic shows how to use a wedge to remove the levers... it also shows where the switch is though.

http://home.twcny.rr.com/embedded/pictures/brake_wedge.jpg

Gazza

Rev C
5th May 2006, 13:07
Got it apart and I see what is going on in there. I can get the brake light to come on if I pull the plunger out, but it needs to be replaced. Do you really have to splice into the wires in that tight of a space to replace it? Seems a little bit of a bad design in the chance of a replacement...

Vegas1200C
5th May 2006, 19:41
It ranks up there with the slide diaphragm in the carb in the PITA department. This forum is littered with receipts of those who have destroyed before you.

Albie1200
5th May 2006, 20:06
Got it apart and I see what is going on in there. I can get the brake light to come on if I pull the plunger out, but it needs to be replaced. Do you really have to splice into the wires in that tight of a space to replace it? Seems a little bit of a bad design in the chance of a replacement...

I got luck with mine, I only tore the rubber boot a little bit, so I left it as is. I looked into replacing it, but las you siad it looks like a real PITA. If you open the switch housing, there is a little metal wedge holding the switch in place. Remove that, get the switch out and maybe you can pull on the wires a little bit to creat some more room. I hope you good at soldiering!

Let us know how it works out, as I probably will have to replace it myself in the future.

Rev C
6th May 2006, 20:55
Got the switch replaced today. Wasnt too bad at all. I ended just bending the bracket inside the housing to get it out and then bending it back to replace it. Soldering was not bad either, although I have a good deal of experience with the gun. If you just tin all four leads and apply a bit of heat, they go right together for a good hot solder. Dont cut too much off the new switch because you will need it to wrap around the bracket inside. I almost did. I would say to cut an inch off the new switch leads. Getting the housing back together was simple too. THe hardest part was probably getting the harness to sit right and zip tied into the housing. The wires have to go back a certain way or the housing wont close. Actually, I take that back. The hardest part was definitely opening the wallet up for 26 bux for the switch at the stealer. But it is now good to go, and one should not underestimate a brake light the operates properly. I also picked up the HD shop manual for 58 dollars. Seems like it is worth it from what I have seen paging through it...