View Full Version : Where is the return hose?

22nd July 2006, 13:08
A long time ago, there was a product review of a product called the "Rouge Oil Scavanger" or something like that. Basically, it was a fitting that let you pump out the last bit of old oil when you do an oil change. Members here chimed in and said why pay $60 when all you need to do is disconnect the return line and let it run until you see the new oil coming through?

Well, I' going back to synthetic after my break-in, and want to get all the cheap dyno out. My manual isn't really clear, but it looks like the return hose is on the bottom of the oil tank - right next to the crankcase vent hose. If that's it, how would I get to it? Doesn't look easy.

22nd July 2006, 15:36
Your return hose usually feeds into the top of the tank. There should be three hoses going into your tank; feed, return and vent. The vent goes into the top of the tank also but it is a smaller diameter than the return. The one on the bottom is the feed for your oil pump.

22nd July 2006, 15:51
That's the wat I figured it, but the manual sayy the opposite. What a PITA!

23rd July 2006, 01:59
That's the wat I figured it, but the manual sayy the opposite. What a PITA!

Too much thought and too much time...

Change your oil and RIDE, dude....


25th July 2006, 21:03
Yeah, what Cantolina said

25th July 2006, 21:15
I'll be out tonight after work...What about you???

3rd August 2006, 19:42
Hey Guys...Any luck with an answer on this?

3rd August 2006, 19:49
Why worry about 1-2 onces left inside the oil bag anyways, dyno or syn they are both compatible to worry about such a minor thing.

The oil drain hose and plug area under the bike are the lowest points anyway. :rolleyes:

3rd August 2006, 19:55
Because I want it clean!!! I think there's more than 1 or 2 ounces. I tyhink by the time it runs clean it'll be more like 5 or 6.

3rd August 2006, 20:23
Too much thought and too much time...

Change your oil and RIDE, dude....


the chance you will screw up and ruin something ,is a hundred times greater than a gain to get 2 oz of oil out.:frownthre

Moved On
3rd August 2006, 20:33
Well the old oil will dillute out everytime you change the oil. So if you change the oil several times, making sure you run the bike in between a little bit to mix the old and new, then you will eventually dillute out the old enough to declare it significantly gone. There's a pretty easy calculus equation (just a couple derivatives) to figure out how fast the old oil will dillute out... but I flunked chemistry I where I remember the equation being on the final exam.... so I can't say with confidence how many times you need to change the oil, but doing it about 10 times ought to be pretty good.

I don't think you're going to find the answer you want to your question, since it's a rather ridiculous question to begin with, I doubt you're going to find anyone with experience doing this.


3rd August 2006, 20:49
Rather spend the $60 bucks on a few good oil changes like Amsoil or Bel- Ray or any of the top grade syns to offset the benefits of trying to scavenge the oil pump with some snake oil device. :wonderlan but thats just me.

3rd August 2006, 21:07
All joking aside, there was a thread here where someone was discussing this product:


The members here came pretty much to the same conclusion you all have, but I remember a couple of guys saying, "Why should I spend the $$$ on this product, I just disconnect my return line and do the same thing and it's free".

I just figured I'd give it a try but I can't find the thread anymore. If I could, I would have just asked the posters.

Oh, and Gary - No way I'm doing 10 oil changes with Mobil 1. Now THAT"S some $$$

4th August 2006, 01:25
Gary's 2nd paragraph would have lost irony if he had added LOL to the end of the first. IMHO Matt

4th August 2006, 01:34
Any oil change is better than nothing at all, i run syn and still change my oil like every 2000- 3000 miles.

Even the syns will darken after about 1200 miles from all the garage they pick up from the oil being splash fed to the pistons, cylinder walls and flywheel components.