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I will keep a carbon copy here of all my blog posts on my personal Cycle Blog @ http://mast3r7.blogspot.com/

XLForun.net only allows 4 pictures per blog post, so to see all of the images and details of posts, follow the links to http://mast3r7.blogspot.com/

I will write not only about what is going on with my current Sporty Project, but also about Lifestyle and HD ownership as well, enjoy.

-Big Al
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Break Pads, Changing Fluids & System Bleeding

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Posted 19th June 2010 at 15:59 by Big Al-1200c
Updated 28th June 2010 at 09:04 by Big Al-1200c

On my last post, I mentioned that the breaks needed attention. Here is the scoop:

Ever since I got this bike, I noticed that the breaks needed to be looked over, as both the lever and pedal felt spongy and needed quite a lot of effort to get the bike to stop. When I inspected the front break pads I discovered that exterior pad was unevenly worn, way more on one end than the other. This meant that the pistons were not applying the same amount of force. A clear sign that there was something wrong with the fluid in the system.




When I inspected the fluid, I found it to be way over due for a change, as the DOT 5 fluid was a light yellow color instead of the dark purple it is when new. I drained the master cylinder and lines of all fluid and re-filled with new HD DOT 5 fluid. I also replaced the front pads with new ones. Once all air bubbles were our of the system, the front brake felt good enough to send me into an Endo!, sweet.


Now moving on to the rear breaks, I found the pads to be evenly worn and still within spec, so I left them in place. But the fluid in the rear master cylinder was in the same shape as the front one, so once again I drained the whole system and re-filled with new HD DOT 5 fluid. The different was so huge that when I attempted to stop at my first amber traffic light I locked the rear tire. That shows you how much pressure I was applying before the tune-up. Now all it takes is a little tap on the pedal and a gentle squeeze on the lever and the bike comes to a brisk stop. Love it.

I found that in the absence of a fluid pump to drain the master cylinders, a regular size medicine dropper works wonders. I used one to drain the master cylinders empty, added new fluid, then bleed the system from the drain valve at the caliper.








Always check your breaks regularly and replace your pads as soon as they are no longer withing their specs. Tires & Breaks are the two things that keep you upright and make you stop!


"what the point of going fast if you can't stop"


Big Al
(XLForun.net only allows 4 pictures per blog post, so to see all of the images and details of posts, follow the links to http://mast3r7.blogspot.com/)
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