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-   -   Sportster Crankcase Pressure / Engine Breathing / Wetsumping and Mods (http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2073932)

60Gunner 5th August 2019 05:16

Yep. That's pretty much it. The umbrella does rest on very edge even with the spacer in tact tho.

Hippysmack 5th August 2019 05:54

Thanks.
I dropped the umbrella down.
I just want to present an understanding of how it works.


edit:
I created a sub doc under Aftermarket Breathers on the main CC pressure page for the Hayden valve.
"Dissecting the Hayden KVP38 Crankcase Breather Valve"
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...ref:engmech04a

Also I've included bustert's testing on the main page.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...essure_testing

dieselvette 5th August 2019 06:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustert (Post 5767722)
so it would have sucked the water into the flywheel compartment but the larger tube seemed to handle it in stride.

I was thinking of using oil, then if it gets sucked in no worries.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hippysmack (Post 5767739)
Shouldn't the liquid damper the hammer some?

Liquid doesn't, but air does. So how about use oil and put a valve right at the connection, tube uphill from there. Fill tube with oil and see which way it goes when you open the valve.

dieselvette 5th August 2019 06:40

Actually if we could get 60Gunner to do my proposed test, known bad breathers vs good breathers, maybe we find out it's an applicable straightforward test.

If you don't have a timing plug fitting, tee into the tank vent line?

Hippysmack 5th August 2019 06:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselvette (Post 5767750)

If you don't have a timing plug fitting, tee into the tank vent line?

That's a good question.
Nothing more oil laden than the oil tank itself.
Disturbing the air leaving it might upset the tank?
It'd be worth trying I suppose.
This idea is new to me. But if I didn't have a timing plug, I'd be prone to tap the cam cover.

I know, I here it coming. :hidechai

bustert 5th August 2019 14:04

i will have to go get the model of the dwyers manometer.
if you use anything diff, you will need to have a calibrated scale because diff fluids have diff specific gravity.
when i was running the control room on semi-submersible drilling rigs, we used mercury units because the heavy metal was a dampener of sorts when you consider the rig constantly moving. they monitored ballast level in the tanks 80 feet down from the texas deck.
cannot find a good brass needle valve here anymore so i had to use a B&S inline fuel cut off valve, china plastic.
in reality, the tube holds so little water, would be no issues. as far as color, i used food color so hot pink could happen. dwyers does make their own fluid with a florescence additive to heighten the contrast, my bottle leaked it all out.
need to look at the cases but a hidden or reversible method need to be made.
for grins and giggles, using a cam follower block bolt made for a tap off to the chest, probably would have to drill a small hole in the case if the hole is blind but the hole only needs to be very small, will have to see what i used. this way, replacing with the stock bolt covers everything up. if it weeps, a little teflon on the threads but myself, add o-ring groove under the head.

dieselvette 5th August 2019 14:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustert (Post 5767787)
cannot find a good brass needle valve here anymore so i had to use a B&S inline fuel cut off valve, china plastic.

Ebay - search for 1/4 brass needle valve.

Or, I have tons of tubing, fittings, etc if anyone needs something you can't find I will send for the cost of shipping. Won't be home until next week though.

Hippysmack 5th August 2019 15:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by bustert (Post 5767787)
if you use anything diff, you will need to have a calibrated scale because diff fluids have diff specific gravity.
in reality, the tube holds so little water, would be no issues. as far as color, i used food color so hot pink could happen. dwyers does make their own fluid with a florescence additive to heighten the contrast, my bottle leaked it all out.
need to look at the cases but a hidden or reversible method need to be made.
for grins and giggles, using a cam follower block bolt made for a tap off to the chest, probably would have to drill a small hole in the case if the hole is blind but the hole only needs to be very small, will have to see what i used. this way, replacing with the stock bolt covers everything up. if it weeps, a little teflon on the threads but myself, add o-ring groove under the head.

That's what I was wondering since the instruction sheet specifically said dyed water or mercury only.
As far as the liquid dampening, it's not compressibility but non compressibility I was thinking of.
I was thinking the more dense the liquid, the harder it is to affect (move) it.
Si I figure that would be a factor in operation.

I don't have a problem tapping into the engine.
But, it'd be nice to have an easy way to attach the unit for those without a timing plug.

So the valve is needed to regulate flow to get around the initial surge or during entire testing?

60Gunner 5th August 2019 15:53

Never tee into the tank vent line. I'll test good vs. bad breathers if someone wants to send me a set of good ones.

Tomcatt 5th August 2019 15:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hippysmack (Post 5767807)
So the valve is needed to regulate flow to get around the initial surge or during entire testing?

A restriction damps the fluctuations. A needle valve makes a nice adjustable damper. It's a full time thing. If a small diameter tube fed the gauge or manometer we'd shove the smallest pilot jet we had in it. Sometimes two if one didn't damp enough.


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