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-   -   Ironhead 77-78 OEM exhaust baffle removal (http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2071532)

Bob F 1st November 2018 18:13

Quote:

Straight pipes suck!
+1 Kill mid-range power.

Chuckthebeatertruck 1st November 2018 22:06

Cory, if you want XLR pipes, you don't have to spend real money. Corso has been repopping them for years. https://www.thegasbox.com/parts/1958...raight-exhaust

Gas box is now their distributor. I just called Corso last week to get some stuff for the '46 -- they'll set you up if you want to go that route. Get the raw headers -- they'll set you back $110 with shipping and paint them to match your taste. The rustoleum high heat bbq and stove paint works surprisingly well and doesn't require the futzing around of some other high heat paints. I've been using it on headers for two years now and I don't exactly treat my bikes nicely as you know.

As for gutting the current can -- no problem. Been there, done that. You can cut the spot welds as pointed out; or you can simply remove the end baffle by carefully cutting around the ID of the pipe. As mentioned a bi-metal hole saw works and can be purchased on the cheap at Harbor Freight if this is a one time use. You'll find the inside of the can to be filled with "stringy" packing material. This is what you're "feeling." You can pull that crap out and then return the end cap and tube. Weld it up with wet towel wrapped around the outside of the muffler to avoid destroying the chrome. . . .and you'll have a tinny sound -- not terrible, but not too great either. Sort of half way to a straight pipe. The big difference is that when you're not deep into the throttle and just cruising along, they are actually pretty quiet. When you open them up . . .well, then they get loud.

How do I know . . .well, I run the same type of set up on the thumper and on the winter bike. Couldn't stand how restricted the mufflers were but also couldn't abide by straights. So, gutted can with perforated tube and end caps. You know, like 95% of automotive "mufflers." Bike mufflers tend to be like "glass packs" -- why I'm still not sure (cue a keyboard cowboy to school us all on muffler design).

Sure, all the theory stuff pointed out on this thread is right -- but that ain't what you're asking, is it?

The easiest solution, however, is to buy a $50 universal dunstall muffler like the el cheapo Emgo ones. They've got minimal packing and a pretty decent tone. They do rust pretty quickly, however.

brucstoudt 1st November 2018 22:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott (Post 5710270)

i'm tempted to try these. I've had a Corso set and one from the new supplier.first set didn't fit good,second set was worse.the flat spot for the frame clearance on the front pipe doesn't even line up with the frame.

Chuckthebeatertruck 1st November 2018 22:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucstoudt (Post 5710351)
i'm tempted to try these. I've had a Corso set and one from the new supplier.first set didn't fit good,second set was worse.the flat spot for the frame clearance on the front pipe doesn't even line up with the frame.

Bruce -- I'll bet those ARE corso repops. Wooster is about 40 miles from Corso's shop in Kent and Corso makes pipes for more people than you might imagine.

Speaking of which . . .

Did you call and tell them about the pipes? I'd be pretty surprised if they wouldn't have corrected the problem for you and updated their patterns.

brucstoudt 1st November 2018 22:43

thanks for that geography info Chuck.he could be reselling them and inflating the price.i didn't call about the alignment.bigger problems,''head'' aches we'll call them.

Scott 2nd November 2018 02:49

Who makes a decent IH 2 into 1 pipe or complete exhaust system? I’m just compiling my shopping list for now.

brucstoudt 2nd November 2018 22:00

check www.sportyparts.com. I've read here that has 2 into 1.

DirtyHarry68 2nd November 2018 23:11

77-78 OEM exhaust baffle removal
 
Ignore, didn’t read properly

rejeanprimeau 3rd November 2018 15:01

The original poster like the look of the 77 2 into 1 and everybody shoot straight pipe at him.

This thread turn into another save the OEM steel. I'm guilty of gutting one. Those pipes were so underperformer, even the dealer trow them in the scrap bin then. 5 years ago I paid 50$ ship to Canada.

The baffle are attached to the two pipes that come out in front of the chamber, that why you need to cut those weld to be able to get it out. The back is being hold with three spot weld.

I'm a welder by trade, easy for me with a drill and a grinders to pull the baffle out. You'll see about 40 holes drill 1/16" in the back part of the baffle. The hole you can see at the exterior part are correct. I've drill the 1/16" hole a 1/4 of an inch and the red neck dyno flattened; meaning it was the right size; not too much not too little. Good torque and nice sound.

I have an 1250 with good heads and SE 536 cams.

Chuckthebeatertruck 5th November 2018 17:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott (Post 5710387)
Who makes a decent IH 2 into 1 pipe or complete exhaust system? I’m just compiling my shopping list for now.

The following only applies to 900s. I have zero clue what's out there for later bikes.


Right now; no one is making a correct 2:1 pipe for these early bikes.

Both V-twin and Dennis Corso ran out of repops three or four years ago for the 900s and aren't planning on making any more.

Paughco did offer one; not sure if they still do. Fit was "eh" according to several people.

I never had one of the Paughco systems in my hands.

I begged, borrowed and stole to get an original 2:1 header.

Personally, because you're planning a "race" bike; I'd roll my own out of some cheap drag pipes and go for interconnected duals.

The reason is simple: you'll get what you're after without having to find what's becoming a scarce item.

The rear pipe and the junction get darn hot on the 2:1 system. In particular, if you get any oil drips from chain lube . . .they seem to find their way right to the y junction.

That said, I adore my 2:1 . . . mostly because you just never see a stock system on an old ironhead.

Just keep in mind that if you can find an OEM unit for under $200 -- unless it's totally rusted through, buy it.


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