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-   -   Installing an Oil Press Guage "How To" (w pics) (http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31188)

Turbota 23rd June 2006 02:00

Installing an Oil Press Guage "How To" (w pics)
 
Oil Press Guage Install "How-To"

This install was done on a 04 1200R, but I would think that the procedures would be the same on the 03 and earlier Evo engines.

You will need 2 parts:

Oil Pressure Guage, Autometer,
White Face (can be ordered in silver or black face too), 0-60 psi, 1 1/2” Dia.
Drag Specialties P/N: 2212-0004
$ 22.68 + shipping from https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html

Oil Press Guage Line, Russell,
Braided Stainless, (comes with fitting)
Drag Specialties P/N: 1204-8406
$ 38.40 + shipping from from https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html

Here is a photo of the parts:
Note: The silver fitting is supplied with the Russell Oil Press Guage Line. The black fitting was bought from another source and is not needed, as it will not work with the Evo engine anyway (disregard it). It is hard to tell in the photo, but the Russell stainless oil press line is plastic coated just like the H-D stainless brake lines.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218234638.jpg


http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218243522.jpg

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This photo was taken with the oil filter removed and shows the oil press switch (sending unit) that needs to be removed. The wire just pulls straight off.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218252177.jpg
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This photo shows the new fitting installed into the engine case. Since these are pipe threads, use teflon anti-seize tape on the threads ... Attached to this fitting is another fitting that was once was screwed into the braided hose when it was packaged by Russell. The end of this smaller fitting screws into the other fitting and also has pipe threads and will need teflon tape ...

Note that this fitting has an AN style end on it that the oil press hose will attach to later. This fitting has to be at least partially screwed into the other fitting that attaches into the engine case [before] the complete assembly of both fittings are screwed into the case.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218261765.jpg
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This photo shows both the oil press switch and the oil press line installed into the fitting assembly. Be advised that the oil pressure switch has pipe threads and will also need teflon anti-seize tape wrapped around it prior to install. As I stated before, the fitting that the oil pressure line attaches to is an AN fitting. These fittings don't use anything on them prior to install. [Nothing] on the threads. The stainless braided hose is zip-tied in 2 places as it routes up along the frame tube.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218270286.jpg
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This photo shows the oil pressure switch wire. I routed it to the right side of the engine just so you could see it good. The problem is ... it is now too short and will need to be legthend just a bit. Since this is only a single wire, adding another section to the center of it will be easy. Just cut the wire, strip the insulation, and slide a piece of shrink tubing down the wire [before] you solder the ends together. Then slide the shrink tubing over the repaired section of wire and heat it with a lighter until is shrinks tight. Then push the newly lengthened wire on the oil press switch ... nothing to it

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218274372.jpg
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This photo shows the oil filter in place. As you can see, the install looks neat and the filter don't interfere with anything (if you look, I still have not installed the wire on the oil pressure switch. Got to get that done.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17218282268.jpg
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This photo shows the back of the guage and the mounting bracket I made out of 1" wide aluminum bar stock. Cost was $8 for a 4 foot piece from Ace Hardware.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17321405838.jpg
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This photo shows the guage mounted to the bracket. The hole was drilled just big enough that it would rest against the flat square section on the guage. Then the hose was tightened down which sandwiched the bracket between the square part of the guage and the hose fitting. What was nice was that once the hose fitting tightened up on the bracket, it also tightened up on the threads of the guage .... so. no leaks.

As you can see, I mounted the bracket to the "dog bone" engine stabilizer rod.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17321414299.jpg
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This photo just shows the top of the guage after it was mounted

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17321422331.jpg
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The last photo shows the complete install from a distance.

http://x2.putfile.com/6/17321430232.jpg


That's All Folks! :)

grizz420 23rd June 2006 02:03

very cool post a pic when you figure out a mount

883 custom 23rd June 2006 02:10

Looks good,what kind of pressure readings are you seeing?

chrishajer 23rd June 2006 02:22

Nice write up Ron. Thank you for pointing out the proper way to seal pipe threads and AN threads.

--Chris

snowman 23rd June 2006 02:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrishajer
Nice write up Ron. Thank you for pointing out the proper way to seal pipe threads and AN threads.--Chris

I second that!!! Great job on the pics....:banana:banana:banana

Turbota 23rd June 2006 02:44

Thank's everyone ...

BTW, Either I have problems or these engines don't make much oil pressure.

My engine when very hot only makes 13 psi at a 950 rpm idle and 22 psi at a steady 3,000 rpm in neutral.

Mobil 1 15w-50 "red cap" if that really matters.

CBAS5 23rd June 2006 02:58

Quote:


BTW, Either I have problems or these engines don't make much oil pressure.
This is why I stopped installing guages because it just makes me worry.

From 2005 service manual:

idle (950-1050 rpm) 7-12 PSI
2500 RPM: 10-17 PSI

Cookiey_Man 23rd June 2006 03:02



Thanks Turbota for the instructions...excellent detail as usual...

One question:
Quote:

... I will need to make a bracket to actually attach the guage to that screw you can see on the upper rocker cover .... that's the next project.
Wouldn't a mounting bracket afixed to the engine present a lot of shaking for the gauge? Make it difficult to read?

Cookiey

If practice makes perfect & nobody's perfect.... why practice?

Cookiey_Man 23rd June 2006 03:20



According to my '05 Service Manual...

Engine oil should be at normal operating temperature (230ºF/110ºC) for an accurate reading

At 2500 RPM, oil pressure will vary from 10-17 psi (69-117 kN/m²)

At idle speed (950-1050 RPM), oil pressure will vary from 7-12 psi (48-83 kN/m²)

Cookiey

Why do they put Braille dots on the keypad of the drive-up ATM?



Turbota 23rd June 2006 03:38

Well, I don't feel so bad now! :)

Thanks,

Jeeeze ... I wish my guage only indicated as high as 30 psi ... it would look alot better


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