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-   -   2 wire turn signal installing on 1 wire bike (http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070520)

chris16371 23rd July 2018 00:41

2 wire turn signal installing on 1 wire bike
 
When I was removing the right side rear turn signal to install the docking hardware for detachable side plates the one signal rounded out so I'm wanting to relocate and just put a solid bolt to hold the rear docking hardware. I can't find the same stock signal so I'm wanting to use part # 68615-04 and it has 2 wires and my bike has 1, is the extra wire a ground?

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IXL2Relax 23rd July 2018 03:22

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Turn Signals...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...nal_components

Look at the Bulb Diagrams - There are two types of Two-Wire TS Housings... You need to look in the socket (at the solder dots) to see if you have the Single-Element type or the Dual-Element type...

Those diagrams also indicate how the typical housing is wired...

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chris16371 24th July 2018 14:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax (Post 5689213)
Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Turn Signals...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...nal_components

Look at the Bulb Diagrams - There are two types of Two-Wire TS Housings... You need to look in the socket (at the solder dots) to see if you have the Single-Element type or the Dual-Element type...

Those diagrams also indicate how the typical housing is wired...

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I appreciate the reply. Every time someone posts or I come across a Sportsterpedia link on this forum it opens Sportsterpedia but ends up saying "This Topic Doesn't Exist Yet" and I have no idea why. I'll have to track down the Turn Signal Section and look. I ended up just purchasing a 1 wire stock turn signal off eBay along with smoke lenses, amber bulbs, and front relocation to change the look a little. I do still want to find out how I can run a 2 wire signal on my 1 wire signal bike for when I buy new signals so I'll try to locate that Sportsterpedia section.

I have another question regarding the stock signals. On the signal that rounded out I went to take the bulb out of the socket and it's corroded pretty bad and ended up pulling the bulb itself out without the housing. I'll be changing these all to the amber bulbs, how do I go about removing stuck bulbs? I'm assuming they are original from 91 (or only ever replaced once) so I'm sure the rest are stuck as well. Wasn't sure if something like PB Blaster would be a good idea or what to use. I've had stuck bulbs before on other vehicles I was able to get out by slowing going back and forth but there's not enough room to get enough leverage with my fingers, don't want to use pliers either since there's a good chance of damaging the socket.

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IXL2Relax 24th July 2018 18:55

Two-wire sockets may be designed for single-element or dual-element bulbs - So, which style socket do you have? One solder dot in the center or two solder dots next to each other?

==========

Any kind of penetrating solution should work to get the bulb free - Just be sure to thoroughly clean the socket afterwards with brake cleaner to remover other residue...

Then generously lube the socket with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion in the future - whenever you replace a bulb, be sure to put some dielectric grease down in the socket & around the base of the bulb...

==========

We have moved some of the info in the SP which means older links may need to be changed - but you can use the search function as well as the main menu which is fairly straightforward in getting you to each subject...


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chris16371 25th July 2018 14:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax (Post 5689601)
Two-wire sockets may be designed for single-element or dual-element bulbs - So, which style socket do you have? One solder dot in the center or two solder dots next to each other?

==========

Any kind of penetrating solution should work to get the bulb free - Just be sure to thoroughly clean the socket afterwards with brake cleaner to remover other residue...

Then generously lube the socket with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion in the future - whenever you replace a bulb, be sure to put some dielectric grease down in the socket & around the base of the bulb...

==========

We have moved some of the info in the SP which means older links may need to be changed - but you can use the search function as well as the main menu which is fairly straightforward in getting you to each subject...


IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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1 wire signal, single filament, single solder dot on bulb.

I also purchased a new Kuryakyn Run/Brake/Turn module product #4859 and 8 pin connector product #4832 for $45 total. Was going to buy the badlands but couldn't beat the price of this one so hopefully it's a decent module. The module also comes with a plug in load equalizer. I was trying to find out if the load equalizer will allow me to use LED in the the front, rear, and taillight or just the rear lighting or just rear signals but couldn't find the answer. Just not sure if I'm going to need another equalizer.

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IXL2Relax 25th July 2018 18:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris16371 (Post 5689827)
1 wire signal, single filament, single solder dot on bulb.

Use a multimeter to be sure you connect the outer socket to GROUND and that inner single DOT to 12v - While the incandescent bulbs won't care which way it is wired, the LED bulbs will definitely expect the center dot to be hot...

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris16371 (Post 5689827)
The module also comes with a plug in load equalizer. I was trying to find out if the load equalizer will allow me to use LED in the the front, rear, and taillight or just the rear lighting or just rear signals but couldn't find the answer. Just not sure if I'm going to need another equalizer.

I would assume one equalizer will be enough - but call the company if you need to know ahead of installation...

Also, the taillight can be converted to LEDs without an equalizer since the load equalizers are ONLY NEEDED for the functioning of the older (current based) turn signal modules...

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chris16371 26th July 2018 13:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax (Post 5689875)
Use a multimeter to be sure you connect the outer socket to GROUND and that inner single DOT to 12v - While the incandescent bulbs won't care which way it is wired, the LED bulbs will definitely expect the center dot to be hot...



I would assume one equalizer will be enough - but call the company if you need to know ahead of installation...

Also, the taillight can be converted to LEDs without an equalizer since the load equalizers are ONLY NEEDED for the functioning of the older (current based) turn signal modules...

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Thank you for the help!

I don't believe I'll need to know ahead of installation if I need a second equalizer. Being that the one that comes with the kit plugs directly into run/brake/turn module, if I need a second one when I go to LED how would I wire it in? Just like I would a if I wasn't adding a run/turn/brake module?

I have a couple other lighting related questions.

Being that I'm going with smoked turn signals I would also like to change out the taillight lens to a smoked lens. I found one that says it fits 99-03 (mine 91) but I've found other parts that listed as 94-03 ,96-03, etc and still fit with no issues or modification. I'm wondering if it's the same for this situation or if something really changed in the taillight lens/housing for 99-03.

My turn signal indicator light on overcast days is noticeable but barley, on sunny days I can't even see it. I'm always worried the self canceling function is going to kick them off at someone won't know I'm turning so I either cup my hand over it or actually look at my signal to see if it's still on. It seems plenty bright at night, dusk, and dawn. Also seems just as bright as my other indicator lights except I have no trouble seeing them during the day. I've been highly considering removing the self canceling function but still want the indicator visible at all times. Can a led bulb be put in, are they just like a T5 bulb? I'm hoping being an old bulb is the reason for low visibility during the day.

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IXL2Relax 26th July 2018 14:26

SOME of the R/B/T modules implement those functions using lower voltage levels to create a DIM running light with incandescent bulbs - it requires that you insert it into only the REAR lights to keep the front lights normal TS lights - The equalizers are inserted ahead of the R/B/T module - Read the instructions carefully... some may not be compatible with switching to LED bulbs...

State laws determine what rear light colors you can use - Most REQUIRE that brake lights be ONLY RED... Check your local laws...

You might be interested in this thread regarding Indicator Lights:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2045738

And the Sportsterpedia section here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...-_idiot_lights


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chris16371 26th July 2018 15:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax (Post 5690115)
SOME of the R/B/T modules implement those functions using lower voltage levels to create a DIM running light with incandescent bulbs - it requires that you insert it into only the REAR lights to keep the front lights normal TS lights - The equalizers are inserted ahead of the R/B/T module - Read the instructions carefully... some may not be compatible with switching to LED bulbs...

State laws determine what rear light colors you can use - Most REQUIRE that brake lights be ONLY RED... Check your local laws...

You might be interested in this thread regarding Indicator Lights:
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2045738

And the Sportsterpedia section here:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...-_idiot_lights


IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
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FREE Organized Tech Info - Check Out The XLForum Sportsterpedia

Appreciate it. I'm assuming that since the load equalizer plugs into the run/turn/brake controller that it will be connected to the rear through the controller and if I'm needing to add another for the front I'll have to wire it to just the front.

I'm going on vacation in a few days so I'm going to just put stock single filament/single solder dot incandescent in the rear for the sake of getting it working and not having to mess with wiring load equalizer until I have more time, I'm going to solder and heat shrink the run/turn/brake module so that'll take some time. I already planned on running all red in the rear, I think PA law requires it but I'm not positive.

I'll research the signal indicator bulb more and see if I can find the correct one.

Maybe someone with a 99-03 with a stock taillight can measure the lens height and width on the side that sits against fender and screw hole to screw hole distance for me.

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chris16371 27th July 2018 01:20

Are all the wires from the TSM the same size as the turn signal wires? I forgot I had some 18-22 awg solder connectors (shrink wrap tube with solder inside) so I could save time and just use those when wiring the run/brake/turn module. No big deal if not, I'll just solder them with a spool and iron. Just thought I would ask in case anyone knew off the top of their head, if not I'll check in the morning.

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