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Got photos for those that are slow...like me...LoL!!
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I'll take some tomorrow..
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BTW I would recommend changing the main clutch hub bearing as well while you are at it . Save you an annoying problem that you will probably have sooner rather than later. If the throw out bearing goes, your main clutch hub bearing is probably not far behind . |
There are a lot of good American bearing manufacturers out there, so as long as it's not from Thaipanschewan :wonderlan I would run it.
And who makes the Harley bearing? It could be manufactured in a desert somewhere, between sandstorms for all we know. I do agree that some Harley parts seem to be better than after market, and so far the battery seems to be one of them, unless you get a high tech type battery I suppose, so there are no given answers on quality. I look into every part and evaluate what I think it's worth. For instance I just paid way too much for a rotor with a brand name that I am not fond of, but the rear on these things is a bit quirky, so I went with the best possible floating rotor available. I also use EBC Brake pads, sintered in the rear, and straight organic in the front to balance out the braking. Harley pads eat rotors and are way to grabby in my opinion. |
Doing mikes build, I've had LOTS of OEM bearings, So far only a handfull have been made in USA.. I had one. that said it was made in Germany on the outer package.. then the bearing said made in brazil. and HD isn't ONLY using TIMKEN (they used to use them exclusively) these days either.. which is what I replaced most of the bearings (when I could find them) with.
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Bearings I removed from my tranny, clutch hub etc were FAG bearings. Replacements from HD were also FAG. Zippers used PEER bearings (made in China and they personally garrantied them as top quality) in my Trapdoor. Bearings ordered from aftermarket sources may be All Balls Gorilla bearings ??? Hard to find anything made in the USA anymore. The AutoClutch I installed should eleminate any throwout bearing issues but then the throwout bearing is much cheaper to replace haha.
Edit: Your local bearing house is a good source. They even had FAG bearngs but almost all the bearings I sourced from them were sealed type. I just poped the seals off. They are all standard bearings, no mystery stuff, The Part# is etched on the side of the race as id the country of origin. The output bearing was tha same as a Big Twin. |
Finally got the pictures..
with the shoulder of the release plate facing downwards, (same way you would install bearing) http://i39.tinypic.com/dcpnoi.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/j8kyu9.jpg it's hard to see what it SHOULD look like installed because of the ridge.. so here's another of what it SHOULD NOT Look like.. http://i41.tinypic.com/dyoh9v.jpg |
Are there any pictures of the correct FACE-OUT/FACE-IN installation? I found this video and both sides look the same (I think).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZutYyY1yrY This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/FAG-7200B-TVP...XDGKJBDVHCCSWM |
The Sporsterpedia page on the Clutch has that picture (above) from Reddtigger:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...r_ball_bearing Look at the diagram that accompanies the picture (see below)... Pay attention to the thickness of the races and the direction they are installed... http://sportsterpedia.com/lib/exe/fe...gular-bolt.jpg IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<< For FREE Sportster Tech Info from the XLForum: Explore The Sportsterpedia - The Best Kept Secret on the XLForum! |
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