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Old 25th July 2021
Bluto Bluto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Here's the Sportsterpedia section on Voltage Draw:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...key_switch_off

If you simply put your meter on DC-AMPS, and use it to jump across the Maxi-Fuse socket (instead of installing the Maxi-Fuse), the meter will now function as the fuse... You should be able to read in AMPs (Milli-Amps Likely) how much current is being drawn by whatever is still connected to the battery...

Then, you can continue to disconnect devices until you see the current change to know what connectors/devices are drawing the current...

Every connection has the potential for corrosion to degrade the voltage across that junction... If there is excessive corrosion it is possible for there to be a short to a near-by ground pin in that connector (it doesn't happen often, but if you ride in wet weather, it is a possibility)...

Keyswitches are also known to sometimes have low grade shorts...

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True on using the ammeter with the fuse pulled to measure and troubleshoot a parasitic current draw...but a word of caution, if it is a heavy draw (like 10 amps or more) that can blow the expensive and hard to find internal fuse in the DMM. If in doubt on the current draw you can use a 12V bulb instead, it will glow brightly if there is a short or low resistance load downstream plus it will limit current i.e. a 12 watt bulb will only conduct about 1 amp max in a 12 volt circuit. The bulb will go out or dim considerably when you find the problem...and should only be used for troubleshooting, not riding ;-) Anyway this method can save on fuses for the bike and your multimeter.
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