Thread: Ironhead Special tools
View Single Post
Old 1st January 2009
Hopper's Avatar
Hopper Hopper is offline
Senior Master Custom Bike Builder
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 9,356
Reputation: 246773
Hopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant futureHopper has a brilliant future
Default Sprocket cover dowel hole repair tools

This is a bit of an obscure one but a real pain to fix, requiring several special tools so I just pasted the whole section from my rebuild thread.

When it came back from the aircraft welder it looked like the pics below.
Amazingly, there was no big blob of weld but two tiny little rings, still with the (rough) hole in the middle. His TIG welder can weld aluminum .010" thick.
I left the gearbox shafts and bearings in place during welding to help stop distortion of the cases. He pre-heated the cases gently with a torch then would put a ring of weld on, let it cool off, repeat, repeat repeat etc.
The man is a true artist. Notice how he welded around the screw next to the top hole but did not go over it. And the 1/4" threaded hole in the middle was still useable. Truly amazing.

Close up but blurry - (wouldnt guess I was a professional photographer once upon a long time ago )

Now all I had to do was remachine those two 7/16" dowel holes back where they should be, within oooh, about .001". If had split the cases I could have put them on my mate's milling machine and precision machined them. But because I was too lazy to split the cases and disturb that nice tight, factory original bottom end, I did it the hard way.

First thing was to filethe flat surfaces back on again, using the sprocket cover with bearing blue on it as a guide. Couple of hours with a pair of 10" bastard file and millsaw file did that.

Now, to drill the holes, I had to make a drill jig out of half-inch steel plate:

This is to guide the drill bits when I drill the welded up areas, and to make sure the holes come out in the right place.
I made the jig by first drilling the hole to match the blind lower dowel hole in the sprocket cover, put the dowel in place and then drilled the footpeg stud hole by putting the sprocket cover over the plate and drilling down through it. Then the same for the top hole.
I also sleeved the sprocket cover down with a steel sleeve so the hole for the footpeg stud was a tight fit and would take most of the weight in future.

Because the top hole has a 1/4 bolt running through it, and the weld was off centre, I made a special drill/cutter out of 7/16" silver steel. It had a 1/4 inch hole up the centre so it could fit over a threaded stud screwed in the hole. I cut two flutes on the end of it with an angle grinder so it is like a milling cutter, or flat-nosed drill. Finished it off on the pedestal grinder. I then flame hardened it with the oxy torch. Heated it cherry red then quenched in oil. Then tempered it to a light straw colur and quenched again.
It looked like this:

So using my electric pistol drill and proceeding very carefully - dont want to drill through to China, it came up looking like this:

And this:

In the final fit up, I made custom dowel pins and fitted them with a small file and some bearing blue so they are tight as tight and wont work loose again.
I also drilled and tapped that top stud out to 5/16 for more strength and also plan to add a steel angle bracket from the top of the sprocket cover to the two bolts on the top of the gearbox near rear mounts. SOB will not move ever again!!

I still had to strip the gearbox and replace those bearings that had been welded right next to.
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is.
Reply With Quote