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Old 9th September 2021
Jfart Jfart is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wedge View Post
The "heat line" is not an indication of timing or how hot the cylinder is.

This is not to say you were wrong in backing up the timing.

The heat line is a drag strip method of determining if the plug is the right heat range, and it is telling you how much heat is being retained in the plug between firing. It's the quick method though. The long term method is to look at the porcelain. Porcelain color will tell you if you are using the correct heat range plug. Again, this has nothing to do with the plug firing hotter, it just shows you how much heat is being retained and it is closer to the actual area where that heat is retained, therefore it is more accurate.

If you read "Plug Reading 101" that I gave a link for, you can see what the colors of that porcelain mean, no need to repeat it here.

Since you did find some black specks on that porcelain that is back up for you retarding the timing a bit.

I have no opinion on turn signals. I think the LED replacements are designed to work without adding resistance to the circuit, but I am sure that others in here are better informed on that.
Thanks again foe the info. The amount of factual info on this forum is truly amazing. I’ve been using it close to daily for months now and I haven’t even begun to really dig into it. In fact, I just found the “misc resources” tab tonight on sportsterpedia… damn.

It’s amazing how selective the memory is. I knew you had a lot of track time from reading this forum but I just assumed the plug reading 101 was more general use. Once I read the comments more, it’s obvious that this method has been used on a track… a lot.

Sadly, I have to read some things many times to truly comprehend it in and out. I just read your “plug reading 101” for at least the third time and I’m still learning things that I’ve most likely forgotten.

I don’t work far from home but did get to ride to work back and forth today. Bike feels to be running at its best in years and I haven’t even gotten to really dial in the tuning yet. Thanks to this forum and hammer performance.

I probably adjusted too much at once but between retarding the timing .010 further and adjusting the switches on the ICM (dyna 2000i) to 6500 from 7500 has made a huge difference in top end sound and overall feel of how the bike runs. I always thought the 4th and 5th switch on the ICM only changed the rev limit but part of me thinks there’s more to those switches. It has to effect the timing of vacuum or something more than just a rev limit. I might see if someone from dyna tech would explain it to me.

Definitely got more work ahead. Now I just need the time to do it.
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