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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #41  
Old 7th May 2009
Hopper's Avatar
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Default Changing jets without removing carb from bike

While we are on carbs: this is how I change jets without taking the carb out of the bike. Works for Keihin carb, not sure about others.
It gets around the problem of not being able to get a screwdriver and your hand around it in between the float bowl screws and the top of the cam gear case.

I take the air filter off and then take the float bowl off using a little 1/4" drive socket set with the ratchet handle, a 2" extension and a phillips screwdriver bit. Or just one of those auto parts store ratchet handle right-angle screwdriver gadgets for tight spaces. Works good for getting those jets out too, with a straight blade screwdriver tip. Make sure it is a wide enough straight bit to straddle across the hole in the middle of the main jet.

I have also used a stubby screw driver, the type with a removable handle and a phillips on one end of the shaft and straight bit on the other. You can take the handle off and use a small wrench on the hexagon where the handle is supposed to fit on the shaft to turn it in a tight spot.

I usually use a short stubby regular phillips screwdriver to do the final tighten up of the floatbowl screws because it is REAL easy to overtighten those tiny screw with the leverage of this ratchet rig. They only just need to be nipped up, not wreathed down on.

Here is my favourite rig for jet changing:


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  #42  
Old 28th May 2009
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Compensator socket hashed together 20 years ago.

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  #43  
Old 5th June 2009
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Default

I really like this lift so I copied this here from another thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GA_Ironhead View Post
An optional poor mans lift: http://www.sportster.org/tech/rickko-lift/
Here is a photo of the lift

I think I am going to replace my bike lift with one of these.

Chris
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  #44  
Old 20th June 2009
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Default Poboy's brake cylinder hone

I reckon this zero-cost brake cylinder hone works better on small motorcycle master cylinders than the proper tool you buy at the autoparts store. It fits inside 13-15 mm mastercylinders much easier and does not fly apart and scar up the aluminum cylinder bore.
I have been using this one for 30 years and have not worn it out yet.


The heart of the machine: a piece of 3/8" wooden dowel about 8 inches long.
With a hacksaw cut down one end, about 3/4" long.




A piece of 800 grit wet rub paper folded double and placed in the slot.


Roll it round so it matches the direction of rotation of your electric drill, so it goes with the flow, not against it.


Hold master cylinder firm but dont crush or distort it, and insert the special tool.


Fire up the electric drill. The faster you spin it, the more the wet rub paper is flung out against the cylinder. Check the bore frequently as it rapidly removes the soft aluminium so it does not take long to get the cylinder nice and smooth again.
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  #45  
Old 20th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopper View Post

The heart of the machine: a piece of 3/8" wooden dowel about 8 inches long.
With a hacksaw cut down one end, about 3/4" long.
I have used all sizes of this over the years, works well.
Smallest 1 inch, biggest was a 12 inch dia block around 4 inch thick on 20 feet of 3/4 bar in a big drill.
Used to hone out a hydraulic cylinder on a crane.
We spent days walking in and out doing that job!
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  #46  
Old 29th June 2009
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Default

I have one small tool that I made for my ironhead.
It's a small stainless plate 7/8" long by 3/8" wide and 40 thou thick with a hole in it.
I keep it on my key ring.
And here it is.




And in use.



Save's keeping feeler gauges on the bike?
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  #47  
Old 18th July 2009
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Default Super Cheap Temp/Test Fuel Line

Hey All- This is very elementary, very inexpensive, but best of all very functional, and VERY CLEAN. I needed a test rig/gas tank before the first start of my bike, (no gas tank) and this is what I came up with. Under $10 and works great. (OK fine, my lame attempt at giving back to the XL Forum because without it my bike would still be silent)

1) Head over to Super Mega Low Mart and buy one of these in the automotive section, it's an oil/fuel mixer....$4



On your way to check out, be sure to grab a small hose clamp 1/2in or so, $.50cents.

2) On your way home swing by the local tractor supply store, and grab a 3ft section of SAE 30R6 aka Goodyear 1/4ID rubber fuel line $3.00

3) When you get home, drill a small hole in both the top and bottom flange of the mixer. (It will prevent vaccum/suction problems)



4) Then press one end of your new hose on to to the fuel mixer, tighten the hose clamp around it, and the other end to your carb inlet.



5) Fill the mixer with gas, tap the line to get the air bubbles out, insert the plunger, and hang the round end over the front brake lever. Works like a charm, no mess, and you can run then engine several minutes while freeing up one of your hands.




Simple under & $10.

Cheers
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  #48  
Old 19th July 2009
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Default Special tools

I just used an old point plate & welded a 1/2 X 13 nut in the center. Just used a 1/2 X 13 bolt to ease the cover off with the 3" headless bolts Mick suggested. This way the #2 cam stays in place so they don't all fall out.

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  #49  
Old 25th August 2009
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here are a couple of pics.


most of the time i make what need from scrap laying around the shop and return the tools to the scrap pile to reduce clutter. use fine thread, use hardened washers and i perfer 7018 rod.
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  #50  
Old 5th September 2009
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Hello, I don't have a iron head, sorry....
But I love to build my own tools and enjoy following this thread..
figured I'd post my most recent tool build....
Socket for the pulley nut...
http://xlforum.net/forums/s...d.php?t=577253










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