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  #1  
Old 9th August 2011
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Turbo 1350 XLSR
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Default 1250 breakin + mototune fast&hard = fail

I could spend 5 paragraphs softening you up about how I knew better, actually posted against fast & hard, but second guessed and decided 'what do i have to lose, jugs and rings?' and went ahead and tried it but I won't.

Did heat cycles and then did a mototuneusa street breakin.

It did not take long for me to realize that it had gone south. But i was not man enough to admit it and pretended that everything was AOKAY. I mean the bike still pulled like a scalded dog but I knew there was something missing.

When my stage 2 04+ heads showed up I did a compression check before I pulled the originals the carnage began to reveal itself....

dry: 180 front, 150 rear.
wet: 180 front, 180 rear.

even the best, 180, is low for 10.5:1 from what I understand

got the heads off and almost cried. the fact that the rings were intact and showed no signs of imminent explosion was of minimal relief.

As the tests show, the front was in the best shape and only showed minimal scuffing on the front and rear quadrants, had consistent but low compression. The piston showed some scuff on the skirt but nothing to get alarmed over.

The rear cylinder had severe scuffing, likely microwelding at NW, NE, SE and SW quadrants. I didn't even need to use my fingernail. You could feel it with a fingertip. The piston showed a bit more scuffing than the front but the horizontal machining was still visible so I considered it serviceable as well..


can't find the pictures of the pistons but here are some of the cyls. Was fighting the light trying to get a clear pic so no detailed descriptions, should be obvious which is front and which is rear.

good news is that by RTFM'ing I finally ended up with 210 in both cyls. Will post the success story in the build thread

THE MORAL TO THIS STORY IS: Unless you absolutely are convinced that you know what you are doing and are willing to bet more than $500 on the results then you should RTFM the NRHS pdf and follow to the letter. I now have 210 on the dot in both dry cylinders and a beast that pulls like a scalded dog.




























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Last edited by bitpusher; 9th August 2011 at 05:52..
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  #2  
Old 9th August 2011
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chardhin chardhin is offline
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sux man, all I will say. good luck on the rebuild.
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  #3  
Old 9th August 2011
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the service manual is the closest thing to the bible.....
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  #4  
Old 9th August 2011
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chardhin View Post
sux man, all I will say. good luck on the rebuild.
thanks. re-rebuild is done. am broke and happy. will post to main build thread the happy results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil_Seven View Post
the service manual is the closest thing to the bible.....
actually the very simple instructions that Dan publishes to go with his 1250 kit is closer to the bible than FSM but you are almost right.
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  #5  
Old 9th August 2011
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so to clarify, thats a no-go on the mototune method?
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  #6  
Old 9th August 2011
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkdesign View Post
so to clarify, thats a no-go on the mototune method?
umm.. that would be yes: no-go on the mototune breakin. edited first post. thanks.
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  #7  
Old 9th August 2011
CBAS5 CBAS5 is offline
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Default

Sorry to hear that, but thanks for posting that. Hopefully others will see this. I do like to use a technique to bed the rings, but the mototune method is crazy and much different than bedding rings.
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  #8  
Old 9th August 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitpusher View Post
umm.. that would be yes: no-go on the mototune breakin. edited first post. thanks.
thanks. Didn't want to sound thick, but I'm hoping to do this to mine (1250 kit that is ) and being able to cross the mototune method off my list of 'what ifs' is great.
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  #9  
Old 9th August 2011
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I can't believe you tried the "mototune method"

Good things come to those who wait. Heat cycles and an easy break in period for 500 miles is the best best.

no worries, live and learn.
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Old 9th August 2011
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steelworker steelworker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitpusher View Post
(whispering..) maybe on a new bike that has already been heat cycled and has a few miles on it but (SHOUTING) ONLY IF YOU ARE READY TO REPLACE YOUR JUGS AND RINGS (best case scenario, could be worse) IF IT GOES SOUTH!!!!!
You've learned your lesson the hard and expensive way, so why the do you even bother qualifying the timely warning to others that this thread constitutes by suggesting that it might be ok to cane the tits off a bike after it's been heat cycled and has just a few miles on it? What makes you think that would turn out any better than your experience?

Send the bill for the replacement barrels and pistons to that grinning idiot Motoman, and say loud and clear, without equivocation, DO NOT FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF INTERNET CHARLATANS!!! Follow the factory / manufacturer's recommended break-in procedures. PLEASE don't listen to paranoid delusional conspiracy theorists who claim, for instance, that manufacturers specify procedures that will wear out your engine faster so they can charge you to replace worn-out parts!
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