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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
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Originally Posted by Chuckthebeatertruck View Post
Put simply, there's only a handful of people building new ironhead strokers in the 2020s - and those are likely the only guys who would actually consider buying a new alloy clutch basket.


Everyone else would tell you they'd buy one . . .
Thanks Chuck

Kinda figured that.

We ran those billet covers for WMR for a couple years. Had garbage cans full of alum chips...

Saw on here one guy using a kawasaki 900 basket with some mods. Might not even be the same year sportster...
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A friend called last night and is bringing over a Kossman roller some cases and finless Axtel cylinders.

I may be going drag racing!

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Medyo Bastos Medyo Bastos is offline
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Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
A friend called last night and is bringing over a Kossman roller some cases and finless Axtel cylinders.

I may be going drag racing!

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Dug out the alloy clutch shell I have.







I bought this on spec (cheap) thinking it was XR750 but could be used on a 900 engine.

Also, speaking to Scott at BDL (Big Dog Limited) a few years back and he told me they made the Phase III belt drives, including the shells and hubs.

I didn't question him about getting new bits done at the time (had no real need) but if someone wanted one they might be worth pursuing.

The belt drive would also be a lighter set up having alloy hubs and sprockets and a belt weighs a lot less than a chain. Also, no adjuster to fail on you on your Rookie LSR run. *&^%$, *(&^%, sh*t.
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I'm not even sure a lighter clutch is a good thing on Ironhead race engines.

There's a trade off between stored kinetic energy and less inertia from the lower weight.

On high revving two strokes and multi cylinder 4 strokes less flywheel wright (rotating mass anywhere in the drive train) is a very good thing. When your relying on torque, (for acceleration) maybe not so good.

Now, that's just my opinion and I could be wrong.
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Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
Dug out the alloy clutch shell I have.


0-ring seal is interesting.
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Hard to keep these dry clutches dry, especially with the alloy covers.

People (not mechanics) tend to pull the cover screws down too tight thinking that's how to stop them from leaking.
What they do is to distort the holes leading to leaks.
The french locks on the screws are what stops them from coming loose, not Gorilla Wrenching.

But yes, the o-ring things seems it might be a better solution.

If you run a 5 plate clutch your giving up a LOT of friction area. Might be OK ona KR, but a big bore stroker is going to be "touchy" about the clutch.
You can install stronger springs but now you create a problem with the clutch push rod worm drive. That needs to be addressed if you go the stronger spring route.

I would go straight to sintered iron plates an an XR style clutch arm.
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Oh. I think I went looking for a 5 plate clutch for my P3 solo originally. I was planning on running an XR style primary cover. These must be used with the 5 plate clutch.

The better solution is to go with the Enfield Racing version of the XR primary. They do a "wide" version that will take a 7 plate clutch.

Mind you, looking at their web site the covers MIGHT be unavailable at this time.
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I read somewhere the 5 plate clutch was developed to provide a narrower engine. Better on left handers for ground clearance.

I don't really buy that. Well, maybe I do but I think there is a better way to fix ground clearance issues.
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Only hits I got on Jack Witt was a reference to him coming 3rd in a race and an ad for billet spool hubs.

https://books.google.com.au/books?id...Harley&f=false
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