Ironhead 75 Ironhead cafe racer reboot

[ericfreeman]

I've installed kickers in both of my Ironheads and always used the rivets provided with the ratchet plates. I bought the special tool to locate the plate and back the rivets and have loaned it out on several occasions. I'd use Red Loctite on those screws to make sure they never back out.

[sifty]

Yeah I'll loctite them in, everything's only loosely assembled so far. I thought about using rivets but I've never done it before and was easier to make a centre jig than rivet tool...

[brucstoudt]

Originally Posted by sifty

Ah interesting. I was just following the sticky that said what order to put things in, maybe I'll revisit that...

i put more faith in the factory service manual than a sticky from a first timer.
the info i refer to comes from my early f.s.m.

[sifty]

Originally Posted by brucstoudt

i put more faith in the factory service manual than a sticky from a first timer.
the info i refer to comes from my early f.s.m.

Quite right. Decided to check so I pulled shim out and measured kickshaft endplay. There was noticeable movement, and from the zero position it moved to around 0.78mm, roughly 30/1000 of an inch. Way outside the 0.001 - 0.007 recommended...


With the shim back in, it felt much better, and measured nearer 0.28mm, around 11/1000"...


I know these don't add up, with the shim being 0.007 thick, but it was a very quick check without putting the sprocket cover on, so there was a little up and down movement making the numbers look worse, and the dial gauge wasn't aligned properly. If I re-did the measurement with the dial gauge perpendicular in the middle of the shaft and the other end of the shaft in the bush, I'm sure it would be more accurate.

Looks like I definitely need the shim though anyway...

[brucstoudt]

looking good sifty.

[JB in NC]

Originally Posted by sifty

Quite right. Decided to check so I pulled shim out and measured kickshaft endplay. There was noticeable movement, and from the zero position it moved to around 0.78mm, roughly 30/1000 of an inch. Way outside the 0.001 - 0.007 recommended...


With the shim back in, it felt much better, and measured nearer 0.28mm, around 11/1000"...


I know these don't add up, with the shim being 0.007 thick, but it was a very quick check without putting the sprocket cover on, so there was a little up and down movement making the numbers look worse, and the dial gauge wasn't aligned properly. If I re-did the measurement with the dial gauge perpendicular in the middle of the shaft and the other end of the shaft in the bush, I'm sure it would be more accurate.

Looks like I definitely need the shim though anyway...

With those numbers, it looks like you may need two shims. If you have it shimmed correctly, the shaft nut will have a better chance of clearing the back of the clutch shell. (I can't tell from your pics, but will mention that the shim(s) go against the shoulder on the shaft, and the thrust plate goes against the case.)

Jim

[sifty]

Yep agree, went through my stash and found some thin spacer washers and had a measure up. The kit washer came in at 0.008" on my damaged vernier (was raining so couldn't be bothered getting he micrometer out of the other shed)...


Found a washer slightly thicker, at 0.025"...


And buttoned things up, can see the shim now, and with everything snug but not tight I bent the tab on the lockwasher...




And had a delivery in the mail, got the spacer that was holding things up...




I'd cut down some allen head countersunk screws, so cleaned them up and fitted the ratchet with Loctite 263. Debated adding a small weld to them but supposedly 263 is a permanent threadlocker, so should be ok...




And slid on the sprockets and new chain...


At this point I couldn't find the large nut for the clutch, so spent an hr or so searching my parts and even the rubbish bins in case I'd discarded it. Eventually found it behind the engine on the bench, which was a relief, but I stopped here so I could read up on the correct way to tighten things up...

[sifty]

Originally Posted by JB in NC

(I can't tell from your pics, but will mention that the shim(s) go against the shoulder on the shaft, and the thrust plate goes against the case.)

Jim

Oh, that's different to the parts manual and the stickys here. they all show the shim against the case...?
[Edit] and the FSM...

[JB in NC]

Yes, my mistake, a little brain fade.

Jim

[sifty]

No worries, had me panicking a little just after putting things together, esp as it sort of makes sense to have the thrust washer against the case to me...