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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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Tags
carb, hot engine, loss power, tuning, vacuum

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  #11  
Old 7th September 2021
IXL2Relax's Avatar
IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Let Freedom Ring in PA
Posts: 9,008
Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
A. I took the bike out to warm it and and get a few temps. While I was out an electric issue presented. Thought a turn signal bulb went bad but it ended up tracking down the short to a 8-place Deutsch connector that’s zip ties to the frame where the gas tank bolts too. These wires and part or the connector have a mesh like insulation around them. The clip was clipped together on both sides of the clip but the short had still happened within the connector.

My bike is a 02 but my service manual is for 03. If my harness is the same as the service manual these are in locked with that short.

1 the module ground bk
2 12cdv accessory/circuit breaker o/w
3 Flash right turn signal bn
4 Flash left turn signal v
5 Vehicle Speed sensor input w/gn
6 not used
7 12vdc right turn signal switch when pressed
8 left turn signal switch when pressed

Could this be part of my problem?
Well - No short is a good short - so it needs to be addressed. Whether it is what's affecting the HOT condition degrade is undetermined, but might reveal itself when you fix the short...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
B. Due to the electric issues I didn’t get my temps taken immediately. I did take a few temps (inferred) after bike sat for 10 min.

Oil temp inside 220*
Heads behind spark plug 360* front 350* rear

1. When removing the vacuum line from carb side of the T did cover it with my finger. T vacuum responded as it should. I did this to make sure the vacuum sensor was working.
The Oil Temp seems within reason - unless it came down significantly from sitting... I think the rubbermount bikes run hotter than the frame mount engines.

You should still check the fuel tank filter on the petcock (if you haven't) and I would disassemble the petcock while you have it off, to check the vacuum diaphragm for it's condition (or simply order ahead and replace it). Many have simply replaced the entire vacuum operated petcock to eliminate any failure potential.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfart View Post
2. The 2000I module is new.

3.
S1 off
S2 on
S3 on
S4 on
S5 on
S6 on

(I’m going to have to check this again tomorrow.) I know s4 and s5 should both be off or 4 on and 5 off. But I’m pretty sure this is how it’s set. If 4 and 5 are on would that make the vac kick off much earlier on acceleration?
That sounds like the same switch setup we have in the Sportsterpedia section on the 2000i module:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...-_nosecone_icm

It seems you have the switches set correctly - except for what you want to choose for the REV Limiter.

The REV Limiter does not change the curves. It simply allows the engine to continue reving higher than the other settings. As long as you don't go higher than 6000 or 6500 by your throttle action, the REV Limiter setting has no effect on the operation of the ignition module or engine.

Here's an entire section in the Sportsterpedia regarding the VOES:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...lectric_switch


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