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  #1  
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Default Sticky clutch plates

I've been having problems since I first got this bike with the clutch grabbing. I finally got around to taking it apart a few weeks ago to see what the issue is. I did find the spacers had been crushed a bit, so I installed 6 new ones. For good measure, I replaced the ramp assembly too. The biggest problem I found was that the clutch fiber plates were very sticky. I cleaned them with brake cleaner and put them back in. The plates were all straight with plenty of friction material left. The grabbing was gone for a day or two, but I think the plates seem to have gone sticky again. I'm using Formula+ in the primary. I have read about some reported issues like this with the Formula+. What would be the easiest way to clean my primary out without taking the cover off again? And is there another recommended primary fluid that is less sticky?
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How did the steels look?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
How did the steels look?
Only some light wear. I stacked them together to check for flatness. Then flipped every other one over and checked again. They are flat.
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Might just be a matter of several primary fluid changes to get it back where you want it. Or take it all back apart and clean it thoroughly and do it once. Depending on how bad and any other issues, I would just change the oil a couple times.
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Since when a sticky clutch is a problem?
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Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Since when a sticky clutch is a problem?
When you want it to disengage, but it doesn't want to. Like when you pull in the clutch when you come to a stop, and the bike still wants to creep forward.
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Oil level?Mine started to clutch dragging,after was lowering the rear. I had to took out some fluid,and issue stopped.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lehel View Post
Oil level?Mine started to clutch dragging,after was lowering the rear. I had to took out some fluid,and issue stopped.
Hmmm.... that's an interesting thought. My bike has short rear shocks and longer forks up front. That would cause the fluid level to be higher around the clutch.
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Creep = clutch adjustment, when all the components are otherwise in good shape. Are you following fsm procedure or piniongear’s instructions?
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Default

Here are those directions...

So here is what you do to adjust a Sportster clutch. You do it in this order, so don't try to take short cuts or scramble the steps...........

1) Loosen the lock nut on the cable adjuster.

2) Turn the cable adjuster inward (towards the primary) until there is a lot of slack in the cable at the clutch lever.

3) Now remove the center plug in the primary cover.

4) Loosen the lock nut on the center adjusting screw.

5) Turn in the adjusting screw until you feel it get harder to turn the screw. (The screw is now touching the outer plate)

6) Continue to turn in the screw a full 2 turns. Stop.

7) Go back to the cable adjuster and unscrew the adjuster while watching the slack disappear at the lever.
When you have removed all slack at the lever stop turning the adjuster. You want to have neither play or load in the cable at the clutch lever at this stage. Just a nice neutral no play/no tightness at the lever.

8) Now tighten the lock nut on the adjuster. DO NOT TOUCH this again. You are through with the cable adjuster.

9) Going back to the center screw......... Turn the screw out until you feel it turn easier. Stop.
Turn the screw back in until you feel it touch the outer plate. Stop.
Now turn the screw back out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Stop.

10) Without allowing the screw to move, tighten down the lock nut. Replace the primary plug and you are done.

You will notice that you now have about 1/8 inch cable play at the lever. This is a result of you doing the adjustment correctly this time.
Many people fail to understand how to adjust a Sportster clutch and most fiddle with the cable adjuster to obtain cable slack at the lever. This is the wrong thing to do.


You might have to play with step 9 to really eliminate the creeping. That’s what worked for me.
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