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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
supermotolew supermotolew is offline
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Default 1984 XLH barnfind gremlins!

Hi everyone, ive found a beauty of a ironhead but im having a few issues, its in great condition with 25k miles on it. Im hoping to get it back on the road this year but having some issues and noticed some things. Sorry for the mombardment of issues here in the uk info seems thin.

1984 ironhead early gennie model.
Factory carb is long gone its got a 40mm screamin eagle or andrews flow master fitted and factory electronic ignition drag pipes.

1, Ive noticed because of the carb the VOES wire is tied up out the way is this an issue? I cannot see provision for a vacuum line to add a voes. If i go CV is this easily solved?

2, After 15 mins i get a splutter and it cuts out. My coil ohms are 3.5 not sure what else to check

3, indicators dont flash i have to keep pressing button on switch gear any ideas?

4, is there a method for safely checking the static timing with a test light on this factory electronic ignition?

5, can i simply swap the factory pickup and gain advanced and retard timing feature withought fitting a voes to the factory electronic system?

6, last one i promise! What should the battery charge voltage be at idle and say 2000 and 4000? My battery is swollen i suspects its been over charged.

Thanks in advance!
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  #2  
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#1 Running without a VOES is like sticking it in only half way, you re missing fuel mileage throttle response and ease of starting that a VOES provides.

#2 too many possible causes, lack of clues.

#3 switch to an electronic flasher

#4 No a timing light is the only way to set the the timing.

#5 No if you have a factory ignition it has a factory pickup.

#6 More than 14v less than 15v

You need to know exactly what carb you have, there are some carbs that are not worth wasting time on.

Drag pipes suck, built in flat spot, tuning nightmare. Do not listen to the traditionalists. drag pipes suck.
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Welcome to the forum from Roanoke va!
1. For the voes, you will need to drill a passage through the intake in a manner so that you can add a short hollow tube for the voes vacuum line. There are pics of this on the forum, probably in the tech stickies (in red lettering) at the top of the ironhead page.
2. Typically cutting off cleanly indicates electrical issues, sputtering, etc... indicates a fuel delivery problem.
3,4, and 5 wait for better answers than I have!
6. At idle the generator just barely keeps up with current demand. At above idle to red line, voltage should increase and max out around 14vdc. If you get more than that your voltage regulator is either not grounded well, or malfunctioning.
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Many thanks for the speedy replys!
So#3 is there a flasher somwhere i should replace /upgrade under the seat maybe will it look like a relay like a modern bike?

5, i worded a little wrong i memt if i swapped it out for say a dyna aftermarket pickup.

Ok so i really need to get the VOES working again and tap into the inlet manifold. That seems ok ill source a voes switch and match my barb to that.

#4 timing does anyone have a good link for the procedure for this although can i even time it correctly withought a voes connected?
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For the flasher, very gently look inside the head light “bucket”, it should be inside there.

For #5 you might be better off bagging your original ignition equipment and swapping in an ultima...
http://www.ultimaproducts.com/programmableignition.html

Available here, as well as other venders...
http://buy.jirehcycles.com:8080/stor...-number=53-660
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I added a VOES port to my 82 by drilling an 1/8" hole into the manifold flange (where the carb attaches) and stuffing a piece of brass tube in there with Loctite Green. Doesn't have to be fancy, just has to see manifold vacuum.

For the sputtering and cutting out, can you A) restart shortly after it dies or do you B) have to wait for things to cool off? If B, sometimes coils going bad will act up when they get hot. If A, I think it's more likely you have a partial blockage in the fuel system, probably crud in the intake strainer if it's been sitting. If it has an inline fuel filter, remove it - you don't need it and they restrict flow. Otherwise a good tank cleaning is probably just what the doctor ordered.

+1 on drag pipes suck. But they make nice header tubes if you cut them shorter and add slip-on mufflers. You might need to replace your rear exhaust bracket with the stock one though, or modify whatever bracket you have now.

+1 on an Ultima. It's very popular on the forum for good reason. I have one and it's great, plus the kit comes with everything you need. Plus you can static time it without a timing light!
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Great thankyou for all of the input

Regarding
+1 on an Ultima. It's very popular on the forum for good reason. I have one and it's great, plus the kit comes with everything you need. Plus you can static time it without a timing light!

Do you have experiance of this kit on a factory electronic model if so does this use the factory ECM? And voes wiring? Eg: swap out the pickup and coil only? It looks simple if replacing a points system but im unsure of what remains from the factory electronic system.
Thanks again everyone for the input! Learning fast!
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The ultima is “stand alone”. No factory ignition parts are used with it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
The ultima is “stand alone”. No factory ignition parts are used with it.
sweet so u just unplug the ecm. That could be a good subsitute if i struggle with this one.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermotolew View Post


3, indicators dont flash i have to keep pressing button on switch gear any ideas?


If you press either turn signal switch and hold it, does the turn signal flash until you let go?

That's the way it works on my '82, that's the way they came from the factory. I don't know if it was still that way for the '84 model.

If it doesn't flash when you hold either turn signal switch, I'd check the flasher, as already mentioned.
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