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  #11  
Old 1 Week Ago
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You probably don't want stainless allens. Stainless bolts into aluminum basically cold welds them together, which may be the source of your current difficulties.

Also stainless bolts are only about as strong as Grade 5 hardware, so they'll be weaker than the chromed variety. I think the countersink allen bolts are made of the same stuff as regular allens, which is even stronger than Grade 8.
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Heat and a sharp center punch. After heating strike a dimple in the outermost dia of the bolt head. Use the dimple and center punch to turn the bolt, being careful not to strike directly down, but in the direction of rotation. Use sharp blows to impact it around and not to drive the underside of the bolt head into the countersunk area on the rotor. Once it is loose, your alllen should suffice to turn it the rest of the way out, even if the reciever is slightly deformed.
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  #13  
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+1 on Mick's notice of the red Loctite! I've done this on my discs and you have to use high heat to release the Loctite. Once the bolts are hot, they'll back out easily. To try without heat will only result in disaster. If you don't have torches, take the wheels to someone who does.

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  #14  
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Heating has its draw backs. You want to only heat the bolt and not the area(s) around it.
If you have a friend with a welder:
With Allen bolts, the trick I use is to plug weld the hex hole closed with a MIG welder. Let that cool completely and as the bolt cools and contracts, it'll usually shrink and break loose. Hand in hand with that is to plug weld a nut onto the button formed when plug welding the bolt hex. Let that cool completely and go after it with an end wrench. The trick with stuck bolts is to first try tightening them just enough to break them loose. Tightening a bolt puts its threads in compression while loosening stretches the threads, putting them in tension and easier to break.

No welder?:
I've had pretty good luck drilling the bolts out.
With new, sharp cobalt or TiN coated drill bits, drill through the Allen bolt from end to end. By starting small, you can make corrections to keep on center as you go up in drill sizes. When you get a good straight hole bored through, stop before you have the "walls" of the bolt too thin. You still want to remove what's left of the bolt and the threads in one piece. Now switch to a left hand twist drill bit, included in some screw extractor kits.
By drilling out the center of the bolt, you're turning it into a hollow tube which without inner support, will tend to collapse very slightly, losing it's grip on the threads. The trick with left hand twist bits is that, at some point the bit will usually snag and unscrew the remainder of the bolt from the hole.
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I found a LOT of heat and the impact hammer was the answer. But if you have already wrecked the heads you will need another solution on those bolts.
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i remove fasteners all the time by welding a nut on top through the hole and immediately wrench it out, welding heat makes it easy and is concentrated on the fastener.
as far as ss and aluminum, i totally disagree as that is exactly what we use on steel guitar frame. now they do make diff grades, we use 316.
a big issue with aluminum is over torque, if you go past yield and the thread breaks, upon removal, you just thread locked it.
when i removed mine, i used a jeweler tip on my torch and they came out easily.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonesL View Post
Heating has its draw backs. You want to only heat the bolt and not the area(s) around it.
If you have a friend with a welder:
With Allen bolts, the trick I use is to plug weld the hex hole closed with a MIG welder. Let that cool completely and as the bolt cools and contracts, it'll usually shrink and break loose. Hand in hand with that is to plug weld a nut onto the button formed when plug welding the bolt hex. Let that cool completely and go after it with an end wrench. The trick with stuck bolts is to first try tightening them just enough to break them loose. Tightening a bolt puts its threads in compression while loosening stretches the threads, putting them in tension and easier to break.

No welder?:
I've had pretty good luck drilling the bolts out.
With new, sharp cobalt or TiN coated drill bits, drill through the Allen bolt from end to end. By starting small, you can make corrections to keep on center as you go up in drill sizes. When you get a good straight hole bored through, stop before you have the "walls" of the bolt too thin. You still want to remove what's left of the bolt and the threads in one piece. Now switch to a left hand twist drill bit, included in some screw extractor kits.
By drilling out the center of the bolt, you're turning it into a hollow tube which without inner support, will tend to collapse very slightly, losing it's grip on the threads. The trick with left hand twist bits is that, at some point the bit will usually snag and unscrew the remainder of the bolt from the hole.
+1.drillen and screw extractors work well for me
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  #18  
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Patience, a drill, and new allen bolts (with plenty of anti-seize) worked for me.
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pretty rough to do a straight hole free hand and a bear to flop a rim on a drill press table. if i were to do this method, plunge cut mill on my lagun knee mill.
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Aircraft tool supply sells a tool that's fits an air chisel that has a 3/8" square drive on the other end. This allows you to put Allen bits, screwdrivers, sockets on the tool. The vibrations of the air chisell and some pressure with a wrench on the 5/8" hex shank will loosen many hard to remove fasteners, seized bolts, etc. Your only other chance is to weld a nut on the screwhead and hope the heat of welding releases the loctite?
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