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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #31  
Old 11th February 2020
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Billy1200 Billy1200 is offline
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Bit of an update..

Managed to get an hour on bike yesterday. I'v decided to put the old SE air filter back on .

So I set off trying to tune carb , I backed throttle plate off so the ports were separated and the idle screw was just backed off enough to allow this , I couldn't get bike to idle without using throttle . I adjusted mixture screw to allow smoothest idle ( as far as I could hear) and then adjusted idle screw a couple of turns to get it to idle well..

Blipping throttle and it seems to rev well , idle well but the only thing I noticed is I can only see 1 of the transfer port holes when throttle plate is closed now ...

I have a Gunson colour tune plug and this suggests the mixture is fine but I'm unsure if the transfer ports are in play ..

So , should the bike be able to idle with the throttle plate closed fully ? As the idle circuit takes air from the port on front of carb as I understand ..

I'm going to tweek the mixture screw see if I can up the tick over then back idle screw off ..
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  #32  
Old 11th February 2020
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rwharris rwharris is offline
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I have the same problem as you Billy 1200. The transfer ports are covered up when bike is idling. Mixture screw 1 3/4- 2 turns out, 45 and 175 jets. I don't think i have a o-ring and washer under the mixture screw. .CVP won't ship to Canada post office box and must use PayPal. Bike does start and idle well. I will be watching your thread to see what others say.
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  #33  
Old 11th February 2020
kitabel kitabel is offline
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Now, EVERYONE say the same thing, again.
So helpful.
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  #34  
Old 11th February 2020
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Started bike up today, usually have to crank it a while before it sort of limps into life..

Today fired up the second I hit starter so can't be far off ..

rwharris I upped from a 42 slow to 45 after changing filter to an open element style one but put old filter back on now.. Originally between 2 and 2-1/2 turns out on the 42 jet but now at 1-1/2 out on bigger jet.. There is only a bit of the transfer port showing on idle but next time I have a play I will see if I can "tune" carb a bit better ...

It's a bit of a pig to do as the filter is bulky and it has the balance pipe on the exhaust so getting to the screw on a hot engine is difficult ..
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  #35  
Old 11th February 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy1200 View Post
Blipping throttle and it seems to rev well , idle well but the only thing I noticed is I can only see 1 of the transfer port holes when throttle plate is closed now...
If you've tuned the idle circuit (IMS) with the throttle plate MOSTLY CLOSED, to obtain a smooth idle (between stumbling with too much screw & stumbling with too little screw), then the above functionality should provide an appropriate level of success to be satisfied...

I know when the principle of the thing is not well understood, we sometimes obsess over 'exacting instructions'... but in most cases, no matter how you describe things, no description is going to be so exacting as to overcome what's missing when you don't understand the principle...

OK - long way around to say you're probably good to go as you have it - and I would stop messing with it - especially if the plugs do not show a lean condition at idle (or elsewhere up thru the cruising level)...

rwharris - You really need the washer & o-ring for the IMS - without it, you'll be air-bleeding thru the screw - erratically - no friends on this side of the border to help you out?? A neighbor with a street address to help you out? A local indy tech who would receive it for you?

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 11th February 2020 at 16:25..
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  #36  
Old 11th February 2020
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post

I know when the principle of the thing is not well understood, we sometimes obsess over 'exacting instructions'... but in most cases, no matter how you describe things, no description is going to be so exacting as to overcome what's missing when you don't understand the principle...
And the drawing in Sportsterpedia does show what you want pretty well. You want NO transfer ports visible when looking into the carb throat from the manifold side. Don't fuss beyond that.

If you're running big enough cams you can't get enough idle speed without excessive blade opening there are ways to "fix" that but you should probably be running an HSR Mikuni at that level...

The idle (pilot) jet size frequently gets increased too much to cover an off idle lean spot on the needle. You're hampered by the carbs' EPA friendly origins and lack of enough tuning parts.

Does the larger SE CV carb still exist? CV's can be made to run well if you have enough tuning parts and things like replaceable idle air correction jets.
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  #37  
Old 11th February 2020
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60Gunner 60Gunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwharris View Post
I have the same problem as you Billy 1200. The transfer ports are covered up when bike is idling. Mixture screw 1 3/4- 2 turns out, 45 and 175 jets. I don't think i have a o-ring and washer under the mixture screw. .CVP won't ship to Canada post office box and must use PayPal. Bike does start and idle well. I will be watching your thread to see what others say.
I might have an old one in my spare parts.
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  #38  
Old 11th February 2020
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Thanks 60Gunner. I sent you a PM.
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