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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
Briank Briank is offline
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Default Coil again

Had to replace the coil on my 1981 XL a month or so ago, now this one has died on me so any idae's why she keeps poping coils
Thanks
Brian
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  #2  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briank View Post
Had to replace the coil on my 1981 XL a month or so ago, now this one has died on me so any idae's why she keeps poping coils
Thanks
Brian
If you have points, the coil will remain energized if you leave the keyswitch ON and the points are not open (very likely they will be closed). If left ON, the coil will overheat because the closed points are constantly grounding it and that will burn out the coil wiring.

Was it a quality brand coil?


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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 1 Week Ago at 12:53..
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  #3  
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1Scooter 1Scooter is offline
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Breaker points need 5 ohm coils. Electronic ignition needs 3 ohm coils. Either coil will burn up if used for the wrong application.
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  #4  
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not so!
look at the stereo sound system, it is all about impedance matching so power transfer is optimum. if you have an 8 ohm amp and you put 16 ohm speakers, the amp will still drive them but the high frequencies will suffer and sound will be muddy. now put 4 ohm speakers in and the amp will drive them safely at LOW volume, but, crank it up and you will blow the speakers either by over extending the travel range or burning out the coil.
if you use a 5 ohm coil on an electronic system, it will still work but as you demand more, coil saturation will go down as well as spark energy.
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A 3 ohm coil will run hot and burn up points, too much current.
A 5 ohm coil works with EI but will not enjoy the extra output of a 3 ohm coil.

Any ignition system that does not have current limiting will burn up coils if the key is left on.
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Many thanks, the bike has electronic and a 3 ohm coil or should I say did have!
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try a different manufacturer of the coil. could be asian import reject.
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Dynatek 5 ohm coil.
Quality USA made.
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