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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #31  
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73HEAD 73HEAD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Nope, it's drag pipes.... then crappy ignition. (timing set by ear) (you can't set the carb right if the spark is not right)

Better than half the riders can't be bothered to check the air in their tires, why should they care if their junk runs any kind of good?
too true.
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  #32  
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Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
Dual plugging the heads and an electronic ignition set to single fir will give you the best ignition available for these engines. It does help as these have a pretty poor combustion chamber shape.
It's not a particularly hard no expensive machining process. Probably about an hour so around $110 here. There's added cost i the second coil and the plugs leads and spark plugs as well.
Benefits: Better gas mileage (NOT 10%), easier starting, better idle quality, less greenhouse emissions, tiny tiny amount more power.

Against that, is the cost and you lose that lumpy idle everyone loves in a Hot Rod. Noy completely of course but it does smooth things out.

How big an improvement over the stock ignition is it ?

That one is debatable and a lot will depend on how well your stock system is working and if you have points or electronics in there to start with.
To get the most out of it you also need to check things on a dyno.

This is because with the dual plugs the timing point will change. Up to 5 degrees retarded.
But you will have the bike at the dyno tuning the carb anyway.

On a magneto fired bike it becomes quite expensive.

On a race bike you will spend the money. For a street bike, these things have been getting by quite happily for 60+ years without it.

My suspicion is that the vast majority of owners are giving up more by not having correctly dialed in carbs than losses from their ignition systems.

But then, this is all just my opinion.


just another question... when installing new cams what would be your thoughts on new tappet assemblies/ rollers at the same time.?
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  #33  
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It depends on the condition of the ones you currently have.

It also depends on the use the engine is going to see.

New ones are a little expensive. Most I see aren't really worn that much. You do lose a little cam if they are worn. The early steel ones wear more.
I give the lifter blocks a little polish to help them slip in and out easier.
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  #34  
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The early steel ones wear more.
is this your experience?i removed new JIMS lifter blocks and went back to the early cast steel after reading posts from Patrick DR DICK and Monte03.another reason is they didn't seem to drain down as well.that problem is gone now.
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  #35  
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I've never had any new steel blocks in my hand. So to be truthful I surmise the material change was due to a wear problem. Two hard metals against each other isn't as good as 1 "softer" metal and 1 harder metal.
But it might have been done for cheapness sake.

The steel ones I've had have mostly been worn. I have one good set in my 58 CH engine.

But to be fair, the steel ones are all older than the majority of the alloy ones I see. You'd assume they have done more miles. Especially as they were on engines in bikes that were often used as daily transportation.
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i opened mine up for the next oversize .005?or.010? i don't remember. with new lifters to match.i spent a bunch of time drilling the lightening holes in my new lifters for the new JIMS blocks.now there sitting on a shelf.
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OK, I'll bite. Why are they sitting on the shelf ?

I don't know that it's any cheaper to go with oversized parts. Especially if you go for Jim's type parts.

And I have never bothered worrying about drilling the lifters. If your going to short stroke it, big cams and rev it to 9 grand, it would help. But most of our race engines are strokers and don't rev above 6. Valve control isn't such a big problem.

But again, these are only my opinions, other may disagree.
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