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  #71  
Old 7th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ireeman View Post
Frankly all vehicles should go to 24 or 48 volt systems...the amps would dictate that. It's not rocket science.
Or 36 volts as used in golf carts.

However, switching DC is more of a challenge with higher voltages.

The arc extinguishing point is farther for a DC switch. Direct current is continuous voltage and a resulting arc from contact opening is constant, requiring arc extinguishing features, such as moving contacts farther apart.

AC arc interruption is simplified as the current is alternating (typically 60 times per second) and voltage goes to zero every cycle.
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  #72  
Old 7th December 2018
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Most digital stuff (ECU, CAN BUS) are voltage dependent and most electrical components (starter and lights) are current dependent devices.

When a battery comes under load from a current device it induces a voltage spike and that's not good for the digital stuff. Same thing for a switch or contacts of any kind. They don't play well with digital logic circuits. If one of these components has a poor ground they can generate a floating ground which can really screw up the function a a logic circuit.

Ideally you'd have a separate battery to run/isolate your 3.3vdc or 5vdc electronics and another battery for 12vts or even 48vts if you want to run your current devices.

Sorry. Not sure if anyone care about this stuff but thought I'd throw it out there.
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  #73  
Old 7th December 2018
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EFI Sportsters have a 5 vdc power supply incorporated in the ECU for sensor power
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  #74  
Old 7th December 2018
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Originally Posted by Kbetts View Post
They don't play well with digital logic circuits. If one of these components has a poor ground they can generate a floating ground which can really screw up the function a a logic circuit.
Usually this is resolved by using pull-up or pull-down resistors anyway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kbetts View Post
Ideally you'd have a separate battery to run/isolate your 3.3vdc or 5vdc electronics and another battery for 12vts or even 48vts if you want to run your current devices.
Most logic circuits like to use decoupling capacitors and series inductos to smooth out any brownouts or huge spikes in the supply. The regulators or DC-DC converters used to generate the 3.3V and 5V rails in modern circuits already provide much of that buffer anyway. This is where my idea of using a supercapacitor to provide the cranking current comes in.
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  #75  
Old 7th December 2018
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Originally Posted by Ireeman View Post
Imagine if you will...
A Sportster that starts and runs off a 24 volt system....it could be like finding fire on the Serengeti plains.
Lucas excepting
Just install another 10 pounds of battery on your bike, I use 24 volts with a constant voltage MIG welder to boost cars; the starter turn like an Asgardian flying saucer.
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  #76  
Old 8th December 2018
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Originally Posted by Sportycus View Post
Usually this is resolved by using pull-up or pull-down resistors anyway.


Most logic circuits like to use decoupling capacitors and series inductos to smooth out any brownouts or huge spikes in the supply. The regulators or DC-DC converters used to generate the 3.3V and 5V rails in modern circuits already provide much of that buffer anyway. This is where my idea of using a supercapacitor to provide the cranking current comes in.
As you say, they've designed around the problem. We'll have to see if they can make it work at 48vdc.

Based on experience, at 48vdc the neg/pos spikes are going to be steeper and stuff is going fail in far more interesting ways.


I too hope they can bring a better battery/capacitor to market soon.
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  #77  
Old 10th December 2018
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Again, Flow batteries. Handle bar mounted for pitch.
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