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Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders Discuss Sportster Motorcycle Suspension, Frame, Forks, Handlebars, Fuel Tank, Oil Tank, Fenders problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 14th September 2018
Spokane2303 Spokane2303 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C
Sportster/Buell Year: 2004
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Default

Thanks for all the information!

Then"Hockey Puck" jiffy stand extension is brilliant!
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  #12  
Old 14th September 2018
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harley506d harley506d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spokane2303 View Post
Thanks for all the information!

Then"Hockey Puck" jiffy stand extension is brilliant!
Wish i could take the credit for it!, but i stole it from someone else (can't remember where or who).
Works a treat. I used dome headed allen bolts countersunk in the puck with nylock nuts,
and, the puck slightly offset.
Get someone to hold the bike upright so you can get the position right as to frame clearance etc and mark it. It self grinds off what it isn't needed!
The stand is made from some type of drill blunting metal unknown to on earth.

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"Procrastination is the thief of time"................90's Harley ad.

Last edited by harley506d; 14th September 2018 at 17:20.. Reason: info
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  #13  
Old 23rd September 2018
Spokane2303 Spokane2303 is offline
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Default Installed the Emulsion Shocks!

I finally installed the Emulsion Shocks and have taken my 1200C for a few test rides..

The installation was easy using a floor jack to raise the back and tie downs to keep the front upright and down. I did need to purchase two longer top bolts for the slightly thicker top of the shock (vs the thinner 2004 stock shock). The one longer bottom right bolt shown in HD's installation instructions and the two special spacer washers to slightly reposition the belt guard were not needed; and, in fact would have caused the rear pulley to rub on the belt guard. That was good news as I was able to return the overly expensive ($21) odd length bolt to my dealer for credit!

The bike does set about an inch higher, which I like! The shocks, preset for my weight, settled down about a 1/2" when the lift was removed.

Very stable ride, slightly quicker steer in to corners and no "wobbles" and any of the speeds I drive at. I tested this, starting at 45 mph, and going up to 85 mph with no sign of instability. I was thinking about raising my front forks 1/4" but no longer see any need.

The ride is now much more comfortable and my spine isn't taking a beating. Railroad track crossing are no longer the pain of my ride!

I couldn't be happier!

I do need to add a hockey puck to my jiffy stand to lengthen it an inch as the bike leans a little too much now to the side now for my comfort!

Unfortunately the front end now seems like the weak link and I'm looking for advice on improving it for a reasonable cost!

The rear belt tension remained acceptable and everything cleared the extended Swingarm travel and thicker shock diameter.

Best $135 I've spent on my bike!
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  #14  
Old 23rd September 2018
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Default

I suppose the best option is to find a longer jiffy stand off another model, but the puck is cheap and works fine and also gives a larger pad if on soft ground.
Changed my rears with R.K's and fine, but i am going to change the oil to 5's weight over the winter.
The fronts are pretty poor and i am thinking of going down the Ricor intiminators route.
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  #15  
Old 24th September 2018
Spokane2303 Spokane2303 is offline
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Default

The puck cost $2.50 at the local Ice Rink.

The jiffy stand is made of tough steel! I broke the first drill bit and then went through my tool box to locate a better drill bit. A good bit and a little oil made short work of the two holes needed to attach the puck. I countersunk the lock nuts and washers into the bottom of the puck and used two stainless 1/4" cap screws to fasten the puck to the flat of the stand.

Perfection!
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