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  #101  
Old 6 Days Ago
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actually according to bernoulli the pressure does not exit faster. when the pressure hits the restriction, pressure must rise in order to go through so that stifles flow. now once the pressure has passed, there must be a pressure drop. here is where it gets tricky. since there is a decrease in pressure, there is an increased probability of drop out and the further from the opening, the greater the drop, reason why they put drip bottles on instrumentation.
you are right in that the increased pressure does cause increase flow through the orifice but the effect would be nil. like changing a plate in a orifice meter, higher pressure requires a larger opening. but then again we are getting into venturi and not restriction properties.
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  #102  
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once again, flow time does not support cooling intake charge, major effect is lowering combustion temps. if you are drawing in ambient air and the jar is ambient or perhaps hotter from engine bay heat, it cannot cool the intake air.
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  #103  
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Yeah I kind of see that if we were talking flow properties.
But the pressure does rise with a tax on the pistons and compensated at the throttle.
So the restriction does affect the source.
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  #104  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
What jetting? If you added no more air by using a better AC and it sure isnt breathing very well using the stock exhaust, what jetting did you do?
Seriously, be nice to your motor and let it breath. It's not about how fast it can go. It's about not choking the piss out of it.
No point adding more in one end if it can't make it out the other.
All i did re jetting was to clean up the over lean factory settings.
It now has...
45 pilot.....it came with this, i believe the stock was 42.
170 main. ....stock 160
N65 needle.....stock was N9EY with 1 shim(probably added by P.O.)
Stock filter.

So only very minor tweaks really just to clean it up a little.
The problem is, better breathing equals more noise (usually a lot more), which i hate.
If i had the money, then i may go for a S&S teardrop air cleaner (for looks alone) and Supertrapp exhaust (but i would prefer to keep a 2 into 2 system) as that seems to be the quietist available. But that would be putting the best part of 2K into the bike.
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  #105  
Old 6 Days Ago
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60Gunner 60Gunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley506d View Post
All i did re jetting was to clean up the over lean factory settings.
It now has...
45 pilot.....it came with this, i believe the stock was 42.
170 main. ....stock 160
N65 needle.....stock was N9EY with 1 shim(probably added by P.O.)
Stock filter.

So only very minor tweaks really just to clean it up a little.
The problem is, better breathing equals more noise (usually a lot more), which i hate.
If i had the money, then i may go for a S&S teardrop air cleaner (for looks alone) and Supertrapp exhaust (but i would prefer to keep a 2 into 2 system) as that seems to be the quietist available. But that would be putting the best part of 2K into the bike.
The only thing lean from the factory was pilot. Possibly the needle. The main was actually a bit fat.
When I opened up my 1200 with a free flowing AC and exhaust the 42 pilot went to 45 and the needle went to a N65C. The stock 180 main stayed.
If upped everything on a completely stock motor, AC and exhaust included, you're running pretty rich up top.
But I don't recall a stock main being 160. I could be wrong in a Euro model tho.
Regardless, you're punishing your motor with that exhaust.if you ever actually run the main and I'm not quite sure I understand your reason why. Because you feel by doing so permanently damaged another bike?
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Last edited by 60Gunner; 6 Days Ago at 14:08..
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  #106  
Old 5 Days Ago
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
... if you are drawing in ambient air and the jar is ambient or perhaps hotter from engine bay heat, it cannot cool the intake air...
See "latent heat of vaporization". The phase change, liquid water to water vapor, absorbs energy (heat) and cools. "Swamp coolers" are a good example.
In performance applications (usually add-on turbos where the CR wasn't reduced) water injection was used to ward of detonation. It cooled the intake charge and helped control the burn. Also kept the combustion chambers really clean... Used to have a spray bottle filled with water we could use to spray a water mist into the intake of carboned up engines. Set the idle up to ~ 1,500 rpm, spray a water mist into the carb (or throttle body) mouth and watch crud come out the exhaust.
EGR was usually turned on and off with a switch based on intake manifold vacuum and was only used when when vacuum was high, like during part throttle operation where the EPA test cycle takes place. It lowered peak combustion temps to reduce the formation of NOX.
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  #107  
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we are talking manifold charge, impossible for water to evaporate in short time frame. the cooling effect is within the cylinder.
i ran the holley system on my dodge 440, know how it works. also water injection must be controlled on a variable speed engine unlike aircraft with a set engine speed. the holley injected via temp and flow rate controls.
spray bottle and spritzing a engine is poppy-cock, will not decarbon and engine, it MUST be over time, aka, running at street level, garage level spritz is a waste of time, better to use GM decarbon fluid IF you can find it. BTW: better do it outside and it will gag a maggot if not kill it. when unleaded fuels came out GM discontinued it.
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  #108  
Old 21 Hours Ago
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When I came back from a spirited ride today, I pulled the oil cap off to check for aeration.
There was none.
But I did notice I lost app 1,000 RPM with the cap off.
What does that mean?

edit:
The only thing that makes sense to me is a higher air/oil density due to more oil picked up in suspension with the engine breathing both in and out.
...at idle.
I have the 07 oil pump and stock breathing system with a K&N filter.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 21 Hours Ago at 18:03..
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