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  #1  
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Default Nicked Stator Repair?

While changing primary lube, I found a piece of rotor magnet stuck in the drain plug hole so I got a newer model 8 bolt rotor/front sprocket. Upon disassembly I see one of the stator coils is nicked right on the front, but not through, so easy to get at. A new rotor was the right choice. Parts of it were crumbling. I got some bits out of the bottom of the primary that were stuck to the gear selector spring.

Placing my ohmmeter across the stator wires I don't get much of a reading, but I am pretty sure this has been charging or my battery would be dead.

So my question is, should I try solder gun and a bit of solder in the spot, or button it up and see what the voltage reading is while running?
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decman decman is offline
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Default

No don't solder it. If it is just nicked and the wire isn't damaged, I would put some exoxy on it to seal.
Now what reading do you get? You want to measure in ohms and it should be low. Check here for details.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:elec02

Make sure the stator is not grounded also.

But for the extra $65 you might just replace it.

So why I say do not solder is this.
It will take a lot of heat to really get the solder to stick (if it does at all) and heat will most likely distroy the stator windings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sportysrock View Post
While changing primary lube, I found a piece of rotor magnet stuck in the drain plug hole so I got a newer model 8 bolt rotor/front sprocket. Upon disassembly I see one of the stator coils is nicked right on the front, but not through, so easy to get at. A new rotor was the right choice. Parts of it were crumbling. I got some bits out of the bottom of the primary that were stuck to the gear selector spring.

Placing my ohmmeter across the stator wires I don't get much of a reading, but I am pretty sure this has been charging or my battery would be dead.

So my question is, should I try solder gun and a bit of solder in the spot, or button it up and see what the voltage reading is while running?
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Default

is it just the varnish that is off or is there damage to the wire itself??
as mr. dceman said, heat can cause other issues. the insulating varnish is very tough and it will require mechanical abrasion to feather it back enough to get a good solder joint. they do have very low temp solder that can work and you can go to an electric shop and get a can of insulating varnish to cover it over but the stator must squeaky clean. if you apply too much heat, the varnish can break down and you will get a winding to winding short which effectively kills the output of the coil. since the hd unit is series wound it will show up in the final output as hash and probably knock down the voltage a tad, to the point of no charge, good ?.
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Default

I didn't write down what the ohm reading was. Almost non-existent though.

There is a nice little chunk taken out, and it appears not to be broken completely.

So, if there's a break the whole thing is toast, or repairable by jumpering over this set of windings?

Just thinking out of the box. Thanks.
There is an excellent local starter/alternator repair shop in Lebanon, NH. called Dave's Starter & Alternator.

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unless you wind it yourself, not worth the cost for a shop to do it or repair it. you will not be able to by-pass the winding for two reasons
1. series wound, if you remove it, resistance is lower and current is higher, the hd unit is borderline anyway and would burn out.
2. there is a N/S relationship between the pole piece and magnet and this is reflected in the sine wave produced and removing it will screw the clean sine wave up and alter the time relationship. your system is a 12 pole ac alternator, remove one pole, see what i mean. also, voltage/amperage output would go down, enough to hurt, good ?
pig in hand, giver'r a shot and let us know.
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I'll try to run it, and see what output is. Thank you for the tips. Kept me from screwing the pooch, because it turns out the pups wouldn't be pretty.

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