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  #31  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Just covering all the bases - It sounded to me like the 'A' voltage was too low...

If you do the tests, the results may shed some light on what's happening...

Do you have a good ground on the Generator to Engine to Frame to Battery? Put your multi-meter on ohms and check from the Generator case back to the Battery Negative...

Also check the case of the Regulator to Battery Negative... If your Regulator has a separate grounding lug, measure from there also back to the Battery Negative...

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Battery ground and + wires are my thought too. Inspect both battery wires and if ok, run another ground wire temporarily and see if readings change
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Yes, grounds, the regulator should be grounded as asked earlier, and all ground straps between engine and frame need to be serviced.
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I won’t get a chance to work on it until this weekend. :/

As far as the ground goes, the only ground wire I know of is from the negative battery terminal to one of the bolts on the engine. The generator has no wires other than the ones coming from the regulator to the armature posts.

I may rewire it this weekend to try and get everything going through the circuit breakers as well as buy some new ones as they’re cheap enough...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate.evans View Post
As far as the ground goes, the only ground wire I know of is from the negative battery terminal to one of the bolts on the engine. The generator has no wires other than the ones coming from the regulator to the armature posts.
We're chasing down a not-so-obvious fault...

Battery cable connections can have corrosion - Remove & clean the connector at the engine - For ground connections (only) use some copper-based anti-seize to assure a good connection with some protection from future corrosion...

Make sure there is no paint keeping the Regulator from grounding to the frame - The Generator should be grounding thru it's physical case mounting...

Use your meter - Verify that the Generator & Regulator are IN FACT grounded to each other AND back to the Battery Negative post - Don't Assume Anything Here - You want to KNOW that it's right - Less than .5 ohms...

Also, I would check to be sure (use your meter on ohms - bike not running) that the output connector of the Regulator is, indeed, directly connected to the Battery Positive post - Less than .5 ohms...

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When I took the generator off, there was a paper gasket there...I assumed that needed to be there? But even still, wouldn’t the bolts holding it to the case/engine ground it?

The battery cable connections are brand new...all of the wires and connections are new.

Thank you again for the help...I’ll be able to get hunting down the issue this Saturday/Sunday.
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I got a chance to work on it today. I decided to eliminate all electrical wiring and circuit breaker possibilities by buying brand new circuit breakers (the ones I was using looked to be original ones) and brand new wiring to color match the diagram you posted. Rather than having it go through the little junction block by the headlight, everything now goes through the circuit breakers per your diagram. That junction block at the headlight doesn't even get used now as the headlight wire is directly wired to the circuit breaker via a disconnect wire. I was thinking that junction blockmay have been a contributing problem, but now that it's not being used it eliminates that possibility.

The voltage at the battery when off was reading 12.63. When I started it up in position 2 (no head light, only tail/brake light), the voltage was constant at 12.5v +/- .3v, lowered down to 12 when I switched it into position 3 wihere the headlight comes on).

I checked the voltage at the generator post A, it's .5v lower than the battery still, despite the new wiring. I checked the voltage at every circuit breaker and it matched the voltage at the battery. So there is no problem with wiring or circuit breakers since the voltages match. Good news is is that there's no drain when the bike sits and is off....

Brand new wiring, circuit breakers, battery, digital ignition, coil, plugs, plug wires, generator. The only thing not new is the regulator. I checked the ohms of the regulator with it disconnected per http://odenmotorshop.com/2013/12/iro...ical-problems/.

I connected my ohmmeter's red lead to red wire and black lead to green wire on the regulator and got a reading. I swapped leads and I still got a reading. Is that a bad regulator and the source of my issues? Would that explain the .5v drop at the generator A post? When hooking up the black wire coming out of the regulator with a meter (red lead on positive battery, Black lead regulator wire), my ohm reading was .8



Thanks again for your help.
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You did not indicate whether you checked for absolute grounding in
the way that the SP suggests...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...proper_grounds

Meter on 20v scale to read a DC voltage - RED meter lead clamped
to the Positive Battery Terminal... Keyswitch OFF...

Put the BLACK lead first on the Negative Battery Terminal - Take this
reading as the Reference Voltage - Then move the Black lead to all
the various points to be tested for grounding - the RED lead remains
on the Positive Battery Terminal at all times...

The voltage readings at any point that is supposed to be grounded,
should be equal to the Reference Voltage or within .3 volts of the
original reading...

================================================== ===
http://odenmotorshop.com/2013/12/iro...ical-problems/
================================================== ===
BTW - Nice Writeup Mick...
================================================== ===

From Mick's web page... These three tests should answer the question...
But I can't make out from your description whether you are following
his instructions... You are not describing what you have connected
and what you have disconnected when doing these tests...


I would do test #6 & #7 first - WITH NOTHING CONNECTED TO EITHER
THE A OR F TERMINALS - That will verify the generator is producing...

Test#6 & #7 can be done in succession because #7 simply grounds
terminal F while you are still reading the voltage on terminal A...
(While doing test #6, the voltage reading on A should be 2+ volts,
and it should jump to 25v-30v when you ground terminal F.)

Notice that Test #5 requires that testing the REGULATOR is done with
regulator completely disconnected while the bike IS NOT RUNNING...
(although I'm confused by the reference to wire colors)

================================================== ===
5. Regulator Test

Disconnect the regulator. Connect your ohmmeter to the orange and tan wires. Note the reading. Reverse the connections. Note the reading. One reading should show continuity, the other should show no continuity. If the regulator does not pass this test it is no good. This is the circuit that prevents the reg from draining the batt when the bike sits overnight.

This test only tests one circuit in the regulator, so even if it passes this test it may still be no good. There are other tests of the regulator that require specialized equipment. These tests are in the factory and Clymer manuals. I recommend taking both the reg and the gen to an automotive electric repair shop for testing if needed. Note: these shops usually want to test both parts together.

6. Generator Test #1: Residual Magnetism

Disconnect both the A and F terminal wires. Connect the +ve voltmeter lead to the A and the -ve lead to ground. Run the engine at about 2000 RPM. The meter should read at least 2.0 volts. If the voltage is low polarize the generator and repeat the test. If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.

7. Generator Test #2: Maximum Output

Remove both the A and F terminal wires. Connect the +ve voltmeter lead to the A and the -ve lead to ground. Run the engine at about 2000 RPM. MOMENTARILY [not longer than 10 seconds] connect a jumper lead from ground to F and read the meter. The meter should read 25 to 30 volts DC. If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.
================================================== ===


Just another note about the wiring diagram - I'm going to change the wire color from the Regulator to the Fuse (not Black but now Red) & from the Fuse to the Keyswitch (not Red but now Green) - This keeps the red from the regulator (like stock) and still keeps different colors at the keyswitch --- Original HD was Red to the Keyswitch (but was 2nd Red at fuse), but now will be Green...


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2 Relax
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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 1 Hour Ago at 00:53..
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  #38  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
You did not indicate whether you checked for absolute grounding in
the way that the SP suggests...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...proper_grounds

Meter on 20v scale to read a DC voltage - RED meter lead clamped
to the Positive Battery Terminal... Keyswitch OFF...

Put the BLACK lead first on the Negative Battery Terminal - Take this
reading as the Reference Voltage - Then move the Black lead to all
the various points to be tested for grounding - the RED lead remains
on the Positive Battery Terminal at all times...

The voltage readings at any point that is supposed to be grounded,
should be equal to the Reference Voltage or within .3 volts of the
original reading...
Sorry, there was absolute grounding. At every point when the regulator was NOT connected to the generator the voltage was the same as the battery. When I connected the meter to post A with the regulator still attached it was .5v lower.



Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
================================================== ===
http://odenmotorshop.com/2013/12/iro...ical-problems/
================================================== ===
BTW - Nice Writeup Mick...
================================================== ===

From Mick's web page... These three tests should answer the question...
But I can't make out from your description whether you are following
his instructions... You are not describing what you have connected
and what you have disconnected when doing these tests...


I would do test #6 & #7 first - WITH NOTHING CONNECTED TO EITHER
THE A OR F TERMINALS - That will verify the generator is producing...

Test#6 & #7 can be done in succession because #7 simply grounds
terminal F while you are still reading the voltage on terminal A...
(While doing test #6, the voltage reading on A should be 2+ volts,
and it should jump to 25v-30v when you ground terminal F.)

Notice that Test #5 requires that testing the REGULATOR is done with
regulator completely disconnected while the bike IS NOT RUNNING...
(although I'm confused by the reference to wire colors)
The wire colors you're confused about are the wire colors coming from my regulator. I have a green wire, orange wire, and black wire coming out. I hooked up the meter to the orange and green wire. I suppose the orange is just faded red. For test #5, the regulator test, I got continuity both ways. Which means it's a bad regulator, right?



Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
6. Generator Test #1: Residual Magnetism

Disconnect both the A and F terminal wires. Connect the +ve voltmeter lead to the A and the -ve lead to ground. Run the engine at about 2000 RPM. The meter should read at least 2.0 volts. If the voltage is low polarize the generator and repeat the test. If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.

7. Generator Test #2: Maximum Output

Remove both the A and F terminal wires. Connect the +ve voltmeter lead to the A and the -ve lead to ground. Run the engine at about 2000 RPM. MOMENTARILY [not longer than 10 seconds] connect a jumper lead from ground to F and read the meter. The meter should read 25 to 30 volts DC. If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.
================================================== ===


Just another note about the wiring diagram - I'm going to change the wire color from the Regulator to the Fuse (not Black but now Red) & from the Fuse to the Keyswitch (not Red but now Green) - This keeps the red from the regulator (like stock) and still keeps different colors at the keyswitch --- Original HD was Red to the Keyswitch (but was 2nd Red at fuse), but now will be Green...


IXL _ ___ _____ _______ >>>> My Build & Ride Reports Are Here <<<<
2 Relax
FREE Organized Tech Info - Check Out The XLForum Sportsterpedia


Being an idiot, I assumed a brand new generator would be good....guess it wasn't. I JUST did generator test #6 from Mick's page (residual magnetism) and it failed. It never reached 2v. It would climb as the RPMs climbed but at 2k rpm it was only reading .6v. At 3k RPM it got to .8-1v. I flashed the generator and got the same results. A brand new generator is bad...

We've narrowed it down to a brand new generator not operating as it should, and a regulator that was never good. So this is good news, right? Given the wiring all saw the same voltage as the battery, a new regulator and generator SHOULD remedy the issue, right?
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