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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
FlashCrashBa FlashCrashBa is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200
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Default Cut Wiring, no spark.

1998 Sportster 1200

So long story short I screwed up in trying to chop my bike. Bike ran fine before I started the build. I tried to minimize the amount of wiring I had so I cut all the turn signals, speedometer, dash light wires, handlebar switches.

Basically all the wiring on the front of the bike, save for the headlight.

I'm starting the bike with a solenoid mounted starter button and it cranks but has no spark.

Coil is basically brand new. Plug wires are fine, spark plugs are brand new. Bike ran fine before I cut the wiring. Everything is in good working order, I'm just a hack bike builder who was left unsupervised.

Do I have to do something with the kill switch wires to get it to run? Its as if the kill switch is permanently stuck on.

I got a wiring diagram and can read it but I'm not sure what to do.
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  #2  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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In my world a "kill switch" grounds the - side of the coil primary, same effect as points or ignition module not opening.

Your 98 does not have a "kill switch", it is/was a stop/run switch, providing power to coil and starter button.

Follow the voltage trail to where it stops.
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  #3  
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been awhile since i seen you here doc, glad your back!
the doc is "great medicine man" speaks the truth.
yep if you stripped the front, you need to run power from the ign sw to the coil. then power will flow through the coil to the ign mod to be sw to ground to fire the plugs.
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Default

There are two things that you need to take into account...

Power to the Ignition Module & the Coil:
The stock wiring is a WHITE/Black wire to each of these - This would have come from the RUN/STOP switch on the right handlebar - That switch would have gotten power on the GRAY wire from the Ignition Fuse, then sent power to the Ignition Module & the Coil on the WHITE/Black wire...

If you have no RUN/STOP Switch, then the GRAY wire from the Ignition Fuse must be run to the Ignition Module and connected to the WHITE/Black wire & also run to the Ignition Coil and connected to the WHITE/Black wire there...

Be sure to use fusing in your existing circuits - they will protect the wiring and prevent a fire in the case of a dead short...

You also need to take into account the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) if you cut the wires to that... You can bypass the BAS by shorting the LtGREEN/Gray wire on the Ignition Module to ground (the BLACK wire)... This will indicate the bike is ALWAYS UPRIGHT and the BAS will do nothing...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k_angle_sensor

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  #5  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
been awhile since i seen you here doc, glad your back!
the doc is "great medicine man" speaks the truth.
yep if you stripped the front, you need to run power from the ign sw to the coil. then power will flow through the coil to the ign mod to be sw to ground to fire the plugs.
Yep, about 3 months.

Gaspasser used up all my patience. He was eventually correct in his assumptions, but refused to provide voltages to help us try to help him. I detest random part swapping.

Since then I have been forced to give up riding, after 55 years. A possible overnight mini-stroke affected outer muscles in my right eye. I put 12,523 miles on my last bike in 10 months. The last 1,000 was one-eyed.

So now I am back to vicarious motorcycling. I did log on many times in the past 3 months, but all electrical questions were already well answered, usually by Ken.

Thank you much for the welcome back!
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  #6  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
There are two things that you need to take into account...

Power to the Ignition Module & the Coil:
The stock wiring is a WHITE/Black wire to each of these - This would have come from the RUN/STOP switch on the right handlebar - That switch would have gotten power on the GRAY wire from the Ignition Fuse, then sent power to the Ignition Module & the Coil on the WHITE/Black wire...

If you have no RUN/STOP Switch, then the GRAY wire from the Ignition Fuse must be run to the Ignition Module and connected to the WHITE/Black wire & also run to the Ignition Coil and connected to the WHITE/Black wire there...

Be sure to use fusing in your existing circuits - they will protect the wiring and prevent a fire in the case of a dead short...

You also need to take into account the Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) if you cut the wires to that... You can bypass the BAS by shorting the LtGREEN/Gray wire on the Ignition Module to ground (the BLACK wire)... This will indicate the bike is ALWAYS UPRIGHT and the BAS will do nothing...
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k_angle_sensor
All good info and good suggestions...should help him read his wiring diagram.
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  #7  
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Sorry to hear about your eye, Doc - And about giving up riding... My Dad drove for more than 40-years with only one good eye - but two wheels is a little different... No need to push the risk factor... Three wheels in the future?

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  #8  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Sorry to hear about your eye, Doc - And about giving up riding... My Dad drove for more than 40-years with only one good eye - but two wheels is a little different... No need to push the risk factor... Three wheels in the future?
No disrespect to those who chose 3, but if not 2 for me, then 4. Not debilitated, taking youngest grandson to Arizona ranch (4WD truck) tomorrow...no email or internet for 3 days.

Toejam is doing well, riding one eye, and my dad did well for for 91 years (doctor slipped with forceps, at birth), but pulling off the road in remote areas has gotten trickier.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=13367

See link in post one in above link or post 9 in below link for typical travels

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=13300
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  #9  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Welcome back Doc. You were missed.
Joe
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