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  #1  
Old 6 Days Ago
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Default Problems relocating coil

Hey! new member and first post, but I've used this site as a resource for a while. I'm working on a 1995 Sportster that I picked up a couple months ago. Don't have it up and running yet but I'm getting close.

Anyway... I attempted to install a key & coil relocation bracket today and hit an unexpected speed bump. The stock wiring for the coil is not long enough. I can run it to the coil, but it pulls the whole wiring harness really tight, right across the open area above the front cylinder... which totally defeats the purpose of moving the coil.

Has anyone run across this? Do they make wiring extension kits? As an alternative, I'm willing to just cut the current wires and solder in longer ones, if anyone knows what kind of wire or gauge I need to use(?)

Also, since the coil is now flipped the spark plug wires are reversed, correct? Can you just flip the contacts on the bottom of the coil to fix that? Or is that just the way it is now?

Thanks!
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Single fire or dual fire coil? Did you re route the coil wires? What kit did you get they are all a bit different and most come with the necessary instructions on using their product.
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To be honest I don't know. It's the stock coil on a 1995 883, so whatever that would be. There isn't a way to reroute the wires because they are all bundled together. The wires for the coil exit the wiring bundle at a specific location that makes sense when the coil is mounted in the stock spot. But when you move the coil the wiring has to stretch pretty far.

And the relocation kit is really just a bracket that attaches between the cylinders on the left side of the bike. You use your existing coil and ignition, you just mount it to the new bracket.
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If it's the stock dual fire then both plugs fire at the same time so switching plug wires shouldn't be an issue from what I understand. I do believe the signal wires are 12 gauge if you want to extend them. At least on my bike they were but I dont have a stock harness. I would just extend them and take the time to hide them.
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You will need to extend the stock wiring, either by adding on an additional wire to the existing wire and using ring terminals, or by just cutting the stock wire and adding in a length of wire to reach the new location. i did it to mine about 10 years ago without problems.
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Ok, sounds like a plan. I just ordered some heat resistant 12 gauge wire, should be here tomorrow.

And ohiodk, when you say switching plug wires do you mean swapping the ring terminals on the bottom, or do you mean it doesn't matter which side of the coil the spark plug wires are connected to?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keys79 View Post
Ok, sounds like a plan. I just ordered some heat resistant 12 gauge wire, should be here tomorrow.

And ohiodk, when you say switching plug wires do you mean swapping the ring terminals on the bottom, or do you mean it doesn't matter which side of the coil the spark plug wires are connected to?

It does not matter which plug is connected to which terminal on the coil. A dual fire coil (often referred to as a wasted spark coil) fires both plugs every time so it does not matter which is connected to which terminal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jharback View Post
It does not matter which plug is connected to which terminal on the coil. A dual fire coil (often referred to as a wasted spark coil) fires both plugs every time so it does not matter which is connected to which terminal.
Ok perfect, thanks! The wire should get here today so hopefully I'll have it buttoned up by the end of the week.
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Using 12 gauge (typical house wire for 20 amp circuit) will not harm anything, but it is heavy and bulky to splice.

A 3.1 amp coil draws about 4 amps.

I like 16 gauge (12 amps) for most auto & M/C wiring for physical strength, but 18 gauge is fine. Probably only 20 gauge on newer bikes.
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