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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #101  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
GA_Ironhead GA_Ironhead is offline
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And that's because the cams rotate at 1/2 the speed of the flywheel...

While I'm here... What does "The wheel not shown have the windows to far left for timing" mean?
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  #102  
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That means I was on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke where I was supposed to be! All done and running now! Took it for a spin last evening! Although I can’t find an ignition switch that’s worth a damn without paying through the nose lol! Can you say(China)?! Went through 3 of them and now going to be on a 4th one tonight when I get home. Seems the internals are loose and not connecting with the terminals so while riding last night the power would just cut out, so while still rolling I had to giggle the key to make her come back alive. Being an older bike that’s not so good to happen because she gets fuel fowled on the sparkys!
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  #103  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1 View Post
That means I was on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke where I was supposed to be! All done and running now! Took it for a spin last evening! Although I can’t find an ignition switch that’s worth a damn without paying through the nose lol! Can you say(China)?! Went through 3 of them and now going to be on a 4th one tonight when I get home. Seems the internals are loose and not connecting with the terminals so while riding last night the power would just cut out, so while still rolling I had to giggle the key to make her come back alive. Being an older bike that’s not so good to happen because she gets fuel fowled on the sparkys!
I just went through two chinee switches.

Bought an AMERICAN MADE 30 amp marine grade toggle switch that I will put somewhere unincognito-like somewheres
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  #104  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by Mission1 View Post
... Although I can’t find an ignition switch that’s worth a damn... Seems the internals are loose and not connecting with the terminals...
More than one key on the key chain will be too heavy and will cause this symptom
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  #105  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mission1 View Post
That means I was on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke where I was supposed to be! All done and running now! Took it for a spin last evening! Although I can’t find an ignition switch that’s worth a damn without paying through the nose lol! Can you say(China)?! Went through 3 of them and now going to be on a 4th one tonight when I get home. Seems the internals are loose and not connecting with the terminals so while riding last night the power would just cut out, so while still rolling I had to giggle the key to make her come back alive. Being an older bike that’s not so good to happen because she gets fuel fowled on the sparkys!
The NL Japan switches are the good ones. I don’t think they are still made, but there are still some NOS on eBay.


Will this work for you?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shovelhead-...kAAOSwG8tcm9Dn
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  #106  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
More than one key on the key chain will be too heavy and will cause this symptom
Only the key is there! Had another new ignition switch and that one seems to be working. Now the rear cylinder exhaust is blue smoking even though I leak down tested it to be good. My compression tester needs an adaptor for the spark plug hole so I couldn’t check that. She’s holding air though! Wondering if #1 cam slightly off could cause oil consumption like that. It wasn’t as bad before cams timing. I suspect the valve guides are leaking passed. She’s having a real hard time kick starting And when she tries to run she’s spitting and sputtering.
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  #107  
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Originally Posted by Mission1 View Post
... Wondering if #1 cam slightly off could cause oil consumption like that...
Here are my notes on setting up the cams -

The procedure to re-install the cams may be a bit tedious, but it is simple and easy to do ...

Do not use the ignition timing hole mark. Proceed as follows ...
  1. Position the pinion gear mark at approximately the 11:00 position by rotating the engine using either the rear wheel or the kicker
  2. Install cam #2 so that the mark lines up with the pinion gear mark. This may require moving the pinion gear mark a bit so they match perfectly
  3. Temporarily, partially uninstall #2 while you install #1
  4. Install #3, then #4 and finally the generator idler gear

When checking for the marks matching get down low and look straight on. Looking down at an angle may result in marks appearing to be correctly aligned when they are not.

The idea that installing cam gears is difficult or risky or to be feared even is an internet myth. It may be based on installing cam gear #1 first simply because it is #1. It is important to start with #2 so that it and the pinion gear can be lined up before installing any other cam gears.
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  #108  
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Thanks IronMick, are all good except now I have major blue smoke from the rear exhaust pipe so that's either blow by or valve guides failing. I have some pics here to look at and I'm not to sure on an iron head if the piston is suppose to have slop but it does forward to rear thus far as i can take and push the rear piston forward and back. Should I at this point just change out pistons, rings, valve, guides on both cylinders. If so a good place to get them and the valve compression tool! I want the nickle bronze guides if i go this major of a route. You may be able to see the intake valve guide that looks like it moved down but cant be to sure on that!





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