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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
19ironhead75 19ironhead75 is offline
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Cool ironhead turn signals

Hey guys imbuilding a custom hardtail im to the wireing phase i bought some mini push buttons from dead beat customs an im reading that they need a relay im asuming that i need a relay for each turn signal but have no idea what im doing when it comes to electrical! HELP!!!!!
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If you want it easy and to perform well, I’d suggest a Badlands module.

https://namzcustomcycleproducts.com/...-custom-bikes/




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What are you using for a Turn Signal Module?

The original TS switches were heavy-duty and carried the actually current load of the flashing front & rear bulbs. That setup used a automobile-style flasher unit and sent flashing power thru the switches.

The instructions are indicating that your NEW SWITCHES can't handle that kind of current load.

If you are implementing LED TS units, using an LED compatible flasher unit, you might be able to implement that without using relays.

If you are using incandescent bulbs in your TS units, with a simple flasher, you WILL need relays for those switches so the relays carry the flashing load instead of the switches.

If you buy a TS module that has the inputs for the switches separated from the outputs for the bulbs - like the unit mentioned by Maxeffort above - then your switches will work fine for those inputs without using relays.

Give us a little more informaiton as to what you currently have (TS module, TS bulbs, etc.) and what your plan is/was.

The wiring diagrams in the Sportsterpedia REFerence section may be helpful:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...6#turn_signals

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Depends on how much current the switches can handle and how much you intend to run through them. Basically, if your bulbs draw more current than the switch is rated for then you'll need relays.

Standard 1156 bulbs are about 27 watts so they'd draw 2 amps each. You don't want to run the switch right on the edge of what it's rated for, so include some headroom as well - let's say 1 amp. Therefore your switch would need to be rated for 5 amps to handle the two turn signal bulbs with a good safety factor.

If you're planning to run LEDs, see if you can figure out how much current they need. I have some blindingly bright LEDs that draw about a third of an amp each. Add another third of an amp for safety and the switches would only need to be rated for 1 amp to do the job.

If you do have to use relays you'll probably need two - one for the right and one for the left. The goal would be to have your handlebar switches trigger the relays, and then the relays trigger the turn signals. Same idea as headlight or horn relays in a car - small current through the switch to trigger big current for the horn/headlight/whatever.
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They are momentary switches... unless you use a module, they will only work while they are pushed... a PITA. A relay will handle the current, but doesn’t solve that. A relay can be wired to latch, but it would have to be before the flasher. Then a second switch or timer required to unlatch.

The Badlands module is the easy solution to the whole deal.
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Agree that "Hold to keep flashing" is a PITA, but it's how Ironheads have always worked. Based on the wiring diagram for the ATS-03, installing it on an Ironhead will involve some fairly significant rewiring.

I think I found the switches 19ironhead75 is referring to: Drag Specialties Mini Push-Button Switches. Based on the description on DennisKirk, it looks like they only need a relay (and a special one at that) if you're trying to do hi/low headlights on a single button. So for a turn signal application, no relay necessary and wire them in just like the factory did.

Edit: found the special relay too: Drag Specialties Custom Headlight Relay - DS-324201
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The only real differences that I see are that.
1) the flasher is eliminated
2) the signal from the switch (B+) goes to the Badlands module instead of directly to the signal lights.
3) The Badlands module sends the current to the lights.
4) the Badlands requires a ground and a fused B+ supply is recommended.

Everyone is different, and I mean no disrespect, but it’s a very simple solution to me.

(And if you’d rather have hold down signals, it’s not needed.)




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Totally agree it's a relatively simple solution. I was just thinking that 19ironhead75 might not be comfortable installing it. But hey, learning opportunity maybe?
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