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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
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I'm not sure but that the spec may be a holdover from the original part and there may be a variation between using the old detent plate & using the new one. I don't know why the measurement would be off otherwise.

In any case, the idea is that the pawl claws should be equidistant from the pins (when in 3rd gear)... You could measure the distance across the two pins (to the outside of those pins) - Then measure the distance between the pawl claws.

Subtract Pin distance from the Pawl Claw distance - Divide by 2 - That should equal the spacing required from each Pin to the nearest Pawl Claw.

I'd be interested in your measurements.

BTW, I now mentioned in the text of the SP that the shown picture has the shifter drum in Neutral - Just to clarify that that picture does not show the drum in 3rd gear, ready to make the adjustment. It does, however, show that that pin should be centered on the pawl when the shift drum is in neutral.



This image (from badweatherbikers.com) shows the backside of a worn detent plate & a new one (both are the new version). Notice the worn holes for the shifter drum pins. This is what happens when the detent plate is not held firmly in place against the pins & shifter drum. This can happen because of the weak beveled clip that is used to hold the detent plate onto the end of the shifter drum. The detent plate wobbles around when it rotates and allows the pins to wear the edges of the holes.

Also notice where the hole is located for putting the bit between the shifter pin & the pawl.




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That is the same thing I found when setting that measurement.
.116" didn't center it.
I actually cut a tool on a lathe the correct size and tried it.
I was under the impression it was just my luck.
But mine shifts better when it is centered.
I had trouble even getting the measurement due to slop in the shaft bushing.
I held the shaft centered in place and then set the measurement by eyeballs (centered).
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  #13  
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With my 1997, i found that the proper sized drill bit is needed and you have to put small pressure on the bit to get it to properly seat the shifter pawl. it needs to be touching the bit. not centered.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddTigger View Post
With my 1997, i found that the proper sized drill bit is needed and you have to put small pressure on the bit to get it to properly seat the shifter pawl. it needs to be touching the bit. not centered.
When finished, if you removed the detent plate, would the top pawl claw be farther away from the top pin than the bottom claw is away from the bottom pin? In other words, would the pawl be higher up than centered?

Did this leave the neutral position with one pin directly centered between the pawl claws (as shown in the SP)?


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  #15  
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As I mentioned in a previous comment, using tool maker's gauge pins, with the pawl flat against the two "center" pins in 3rd gear, I could only get the pins centered and equidistant top & bottom with a .096" pin. (Actually .0955" as mine is a "minus" set.)
Centered up perfectly!
I have no clue what they're after with a .116" drill bit.
Soon as I get all my "might as well" parts in I'll button it up and check it out before snow flies.
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This is the position I get using .096" pin to clearance the pawl and the pin.
That's what we're trying to get, correct?

[IMG][/IMG]
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Yep - I think that's what the result is supposed to be. The top Pawl Claw will push the upper pin down as far as possible (on an up shift) or the bottom Pawl Claw will push the lower pin up as far as possible (on a down shift)...



Here's a pic from Decman showing the centered pawl on a Baker 6-speed trans (from this thread: http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1556767).





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  #18  
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I'm running it then.
Can't be any worse than it was!
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