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  #61  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
conv90's Avatar
conv90 conv90 is offline
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No catch can. It's a 1990 4 speed that breath thru the crankcase, it's a hose directly connected with the top of the cam cover directly exposed to atmosphere (a little anti return valve only is connected). No oil from this hose end.

The level in the tank drops while the bike is stopped.. while is not running. The primary oil seal can't be the culprit. I'm starting the bike with the primary cover removed (not yet installed) and i can see the seal is not pouring oil from cranckcase to primary side.
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  #62  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
No catch can. It's a 1990 4 speed that breath thru the crankcase, it's a hose directly connected with the top of the cam cover directly exposed to atmosphere (a little anti return valve only is connected). No oil from this hose end.

The level in the tank drops while the bike is stopped.. while is not running. The primary oil seal can't be the culprit. I'm starting the bike with the primary cover removed (not yet installed) and i can see the seal is not pouring oil from cranckcase to primary side.
Well that is a tricky one, I road a kick start only big twin stroked shovel head for years had a ratchet lid 4 speed was a crank breather too I had home made catch can. I had delcron cases they have a crank drain plug. So could check how much oil was laying in cases.
Get the crank breather hose were you can see it, start her up see if any oil comes out there.
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  #63  
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Also just thought could do a leak down test see how well your rings valves sealing
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  #64  
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I have about 50 kilometers on new engine.
It idles and runs very well.

I have only some concerns:

1) the AEM wideband says me it's rich. I have used only up to 1/4 throttle and it averages at 12.5 -13 at steady speed. Sometimes it bounces more (I can see the 14.xx /15.xx but only during some change/close throttle. Never a steady value of 14 or 15 or more) .
The same sometime I can see 11.xx occasionally during pump accelerator action of the Mik 48. At idle (around 1000rpm) it bounces from 12.0 to 14 but the average is about 12.5.
( I was hoping to have a better steady reading on the gauge).
It's a custom made 2:1 with a supertrapp muffler and the Oxygen sensor is at the front cylinder.
Almost tempted to drop the pilot jet of the Mikuni from 22.5 to 20 and drop the 97 jet to 98 (leaner).
2) It's so sensible to throttle that occasionally it pings (at start if I let the clutch without the needed attention or ifI open just more than 1/4 throttle . I never had this pinging sound on previous engine even if it was more compression and single plug.
This one has 2 plugs per cylinder. The advance curve is really mild. and the carburation is on the rich side like I said.
3) Oil pressure. At idle on hot oil (measured where the oil pressure switch is) it's at 3 or 4 psi. (probably a gauge accuracy problem).
I have the oil light under my eye and it never lits. (It works BTW).
The fact is that I have not yet reached 200°F on oil . (the max I saw is just a bit more than 150°F).
I have about 20 to 30 psi while I'm driving.
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  #65  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
I have about 50 kilometers on new engine.
It idles and runs very well.

I have only some concerns:

1) the AEM wideband says me it's rich. I have used only up to 1/4 throttle and it averages at 12.5 -13 at steady speed. Sometimes it bounces more (I can see the 14.xx /15.xx but only during some change/close throttle. Never a steady value of 14 or 15 or more) .
The same sometime I can see 11.xx occasionally during pump accelerator action of the Mik 48. At idle (around 1000rpm) it bounces from 12.0 to 14 but the average is about 12.5.
( I was hoping to have a better steady reading on the gauge).
It's a custom made 2:1 with a supertrapp muffler and the Oxygen sensor is at the front cylinder.
Almost tempted to drop the pilot jet of the Mikuni from 22.5 to 20 and drop the 97 jet to 98 (leaner).
2) It's so sensible to throttle that occasionally it pings (at start if I let the clutch without the needed attention or ifI open just more than 1/4 throttle . I never had this pinging sound on previous engine even if it was more compression and single plug.
This one has 2 plugs per cylinder. The advance curve is really mild. and the carburation is on the rich side like I said.
3) Oil pressure. At idle on hot oil (measured where the oil pressure switch is) it's at 3 or 4 psi. (probably a gauge accuracy problem).
I have the oil light under my eye and it never lits. (It works BTW).
The fact is that I have not yet reached 200°F on oil . (the max I saw is just a bit more than 150°F).
I have about 20 to 30 psi while I'm driving.
Only Mikuni I have used was on a two stroke dirt bike, so no first hand knowledge.
but I have turned using an air sensor in my pipe. with a Datta log to play back on lap top.
don't get an accurate a.f.r till you put motor under full load. I was using a very steep hill out in country. have to allow for ex pump masking lean spot at low rev throttle . if your wide open & reving 12.75 13 ok but different motors show best power at different a.f.r. 13 is safe as get up over 14 ok for part throttle just a bit lean WOT for long period.
I was using that at the track but latter discarded it & I looked at my trap speed, went richer till the trap speed dropped then used jet that gave me highest trap speed. and just let motor tell me if it was happy idling and off the lights & mid range. latter when heads lifted looked good.
some carb hard to get perfect might get low speed but not high speed right. I also played with air bleed and a thunder jet to get my cv44 close to perfect
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  #66  
Old 1 Week Ago
R Horn R Horn is offline
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12.5 to 13 AFR on a carb bike I would leave it alone for a while unless your going to start trying to squeeze gas mileage out of it.
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  #67  
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Thank you.
About AFR I'm not afraid. I'll finish the break IN with the slightly rich situation.

About Oil pressure: Today I had the opportunity to drive it for 25 Km.
The oil temp reached 180 . At idle at traffic light the pressure was = 0.
Th needle at the gauge was totally at 0 psi.

The oil warning Light was not ON.
Stopped the bike when at destination, I turned back the ign. key in ON position and the oil light was RED, telling me it's working.
SO I started again and the light changed instantly from ON to OFF.

At which Psi the switch is allowed to turn ON the light? (I was thinking 4 psi).

I still experience some pinging when the bike is HOT and usually at start on traffic light with clutch released too fast. (or not enough slow).
I'll try to remove some additional deg on advance curve.
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  #68  
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jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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I have ridden hi performance Harley's 40 years now. old one's had solid lifters, so no oil pressure needed in that area. so when you eliminate the hydraulic lifters. the rest of the motor needs hardly any oil pressure . as bottom end bearings are roller's. so totally different to car type bearings. some time in the 1990's I was still riding a shovel head it was 98 cubic inch cast iron S&S barrels stock shovel heads ( alloy ) I got velva touch hydraulic lifters. I did nothing to the oil pump & never checked the oil pressure. road that bike ( kick start only ) thirty years. it had an S&S D carb I ran standing quarter in mid 11's @ 115mph trap speed. no troubles via oil system. so what I'm saying is if oil light not coming on when motor runing. and the hydraulic lifters not rattling. I would not worry. But fix the pinging ( richer & less aggressive advance curve ) could take up to 5 degree out the timing. good luck.
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Thanks, very experienced words.
Actually I'm using S&S lifters with limited travel kit, installed like solid. There is a real minimal hydraulic action.
But I'm taking the oil pressure not on Lifetr area, I'm taking at filter mount area where the pressure oil light switch is.

I have to say that I have to manage a little oil leak here so maybe when I finish the mods to the new old stock filter mount I bought, I'll cure also the oil pressure reading too.

About pinging I'd say that more kilometers I'm doing, the better is.
BTW I'll try to remove some degrees even if I'm really on low values now.

Being a dual plugged i've already removed so much timing that if i remove more i'll finish with no timing LOL.

Now I'm starting at about 8 deg progressively going to 23 deg at 4000 rpm then flat 24 to redline.

I feel it pings only when hot and when starting from dead stop.
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  #70  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
Thanks, very experienced words.
Actually I'm using S&S lifters with limited travel kit, installed like solid. There is a real minimal hydraulic action.
But I'm taking the oil pressure not on Lifetr area, I'm taking at filter mount area where the pressure oil light switch is.

I have to say that I have to manage a little oil leak here so maybe when I finish the mods to the new old stock filter mount I bought, I'll cure also the oil pressure reading too.

About pinging I'd say that more kilometers I'm doing, the better is.
BTW I'll try to remove some degrees even if I'm really on low values now.

Being a dual plugged i've already removed so much timing that if i remove more i'll finish with no timing LOL.

Now I'm starting at about 8 deg progressively going to 23 deg at 4000 rpm then flat 24 to redline.

I feel it pings only when hot and when starting from dead stop.
I did not know you have Duel plug heads.
the shovel I had I fitted duel plug to stock shovel heads, I put the second lot of Plugs in between the push rods. did a good job as it's still runing fine today ( sold to a friend )
I thought the large chamber the shovel had, could benefit . but found out a lot of things, I did not know. first thing I found out was. unless you retard timing the motor won't rev. so I went slower at the start. on shovel , I had to have it at 27 degree or less. it made the shovel a bit quieter too. as used to throw fuel into pipes the fuel would fire again in the pipe. thats why the older Harley sound different to new stuff ( less efficient ).
I also use the CV carb, as in old day's, runing an S&S B a friend got a 2" SU he knew how to tune! we used to ride a lot both had S&S super B, then he got the 2" SU I could not match him off the lights. up high was about the same but, from stand still to??? could not match the SU, but needed constant tuning!!
then the S&S D came out I got one of the first. you would think a larger carb, no ex pump could not beat a smaller carb that was basically same design .
But the S&S D killed everything!!! I had it tuned to perfection too adjustable air bleed & thunder jet, when I left my friend off the lights with his SU & killed him in standing Quarter, he had to get one.
but now I like the CV carbs, the CV 44 I have far from stock. has a larger Air Bleed so can run bigger pilot jet also it run's Holley main jets & can go up in one thou increasements , has a few other tricks in the body, I just think to get it perfect will need a thunder jet .
I can get out the hole hard with this carb & every time I open it up it just goes. but if what you have now suits you stick with it!! was just mentioning.
pipes in another area thats important too.
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