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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #21  
Old 1 Week Ago
Scott Scott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferretface View Post
In a similar thread where the poster asked what mods should be made to the cycle, kitabel wrote -



My Velo 562 weighs lass than 250#, why exactly would a smaller trans sprocket be needed???
With the chair and passenger on my 883 Evo, I have to drag the clutch more than I like to get rolling in first - hence the smaller front sprocket. Your sidecar may weigh 250 lbs., but add a passenger to the mix and things get heavy.
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  #22  
Old 1 Week Ago
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott View Post
With the chair and passenger on my 883 Evo, I have to drag the clutch more than I like to get rolling in first - hence the smaller front sprocket. Your sidecar may weigh 250 lbs., but add a passenger to the mix and things get heavy.
Thank you for your reply!

Interesting. My 250# included ballast; I don't expect many pax. My '83 XLH FSM calls for a 21/48 tooth sprocket combination; it came with a 20t trans sprocket, which I've continued. So I imagine that takes care of the 'smaller sprocket'.

When I replaced the H-D gearset in my trans with all-Andrews gears, I chose the Andrews c/r 4th [clutch] gear. I actually never noticed any appreciable difference between the original H-D 4th and the Andrews c/r 4th gear this last Summer. Doesn't make any difference here, I think.

I might add more ballast. On another thread, a member mentioned using 60# ballast; that sounds low to me now. I'm thinking of upping that to 120#...
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  #23  
Old 6 Days Ago
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Serious Blac Serious Blac is offline
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Just discovered this thread. Interesting. My mate has just picked up an MZ Saxon with a a velorex, same as yours. I think your toe-in and lean out might be a bit much. Ideally you want minimal toe-in. The reason for toe-in is to reduce sidecar wheel dragging when you are turning away from it. However toe-in causes sidecar wheel dragging when going straight which tends to steer the bike towards the sidecar. To prevent this the bike is leaned away from the sidecar just as you would steer a solo. Another thing to check is that your sidecar wheel is vertical under it's normal load as, if it is leaned, it will tend to try to steer the outfit in that direction. Your set-up will only be in equilibrium under a band of speeds. Either side of this band it will tend to pull in one direction or the other. Hope this is understandable.
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  #24  
Old 6 Days Ago
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ferretface ferretface is offline
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Originally Posted by Serious Blac View Post
I think your toe-in and lean out might be a bit much. Ideally you want minimal toe-in. The reason for toe-in is to reduce sidecar wheel dragging when you are turning away from it. However toe-in causes sidecar wheel dragging when going straight which tends to steer the bike towards the sidecar. To prevent this the bike is leaned away from the sidecar just as you would steer a solo.
Always good to hear from others who have gone before! I am using specs from two main sources: DMC Sidecars, who do Sportster [Evo] sidecar conversions -

http://www.dmcsidecars.com/

And the Velorex 'manual'. I also consider the specs in the 'Driving a Sidecar Outfit' booklet. Velorex recommends toe-out of 1/2" to 3/4"; DMC recommends 1/2" for a small outfit; 1 1/4" for a large outfit. I chose 7/8" to start with. On cycle lean, Velorex recommends 1/8" over the wheel+tire diameter; DMC recommends 2 degrees. I went with the 2 degrees. Everyone seems to measure toe-in at different datum points, I went with the extreme tire measurement.

Quote:
Another thing to check is that your sidecar wheel is vertical under it's normal load as, if it is leaned, it will tend to try to steer the outfit in that direction. Your set-up will only be in equilibrium under a band of speeds. Either side of this band it will tend to pull in one direction or the other.
I have not been able to find a spec for the sidecar wheel lean. The 562 level frame lean-out (as measured by me) under no-load is the same 2 degrees that DMC recommends for the cycle. To adjust that, I'd have to cut and weld. Not a big deal, I can do that if necessary.

All these specs and others are only guides. It's up to the rider to decide what speed he wants the rig to track evenly. Lower or higher, it will pull and push. I'll aim for 45mph straight-tracking.

I'll just have to wait until I can get it outside and ballast it and try the initial settings.

Last edited by ferretface; 6 Days Ago at 21:00..
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  #25  
Old 6 Days Ago
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I've never seen any sidecar lean specs. I set mine vertical at normally used condition. The problem with sidecar lean is it can vary with suspension movement. I first "discovered" sidecar lean when I had my wife's uncle in the chair of my Ural for a run along some old mountain roads. Some of them were severely off camber and the bike was absolutely hell to ride. When I got home I had a really good look at it and noticed the sidecar wheel leaned heavily towards the bike. Sidecar geometry tends to be a personal taste thing.
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  #26  
Old 18 Hours Ago
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I decided to try the six inch rearset of the body rather than cutting six inches out of the center (and re-fiberglassing it back together). It's just more holes. Maybe next year I'll shorten the body. Who knows; I may not like the sidecar.

Body set back six inches; fender moved forward six inches and up one and one/half inches (the H-D wheel/tire is three inches more dia). Swing arm has been bored out to accept modified three-quarter inch dia H-D axle.

Various attachments have been primed, will finish paint them later this week (I hope). Then I'll fit it to the Sportster and see if I'm happier with the way it'll look.


Last edited by ferretface; 18 Hours Ago at 01:03..
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