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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #1  
Old 20th April 2012
goblin_dust's Avatar
goblin_dust goblin_dust is offline
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Smile Goblin's turn; 1250 conversion and more...

I've been waiting for this moment for a while now, since last summer actually when my trip to dyno tuning turned out to be a complete disaster.
http://xlforum.net/forums/s....php?t=1160247
Long story short, after >$700 spent at the dealer for the new cylinders and pistons the bike did not run any better than before. This pretty much confirmed what I suspected before; HD service has about the same rate of probability of getting the bike fixed that if otherwise I did the job myself.
After due consideration of whether I should go with SE setup or 1250 upgrade I decided for the latter. Having SE heads and pistons before I have to say that 11.3:1 compression is probably too much for NY weather and 93 gasoline, every too often I was getting loud clank and stalled engine after short stop at gas stations and alike.
So, ultimately my choice fell on Hammer Performance head work and 1250 conversion kit.
Along with the engine I also wanted to install a few other things and do some maintenance too.
Here is my plan for upcoming week (hopefully no longer):
1) Install Koso tachometer. The SE shift light that I have now turned out to be not working very well on 2006 carb model, too noisy. Hopefully Koso will work better, especially that they provide an optional signal adapter, which I expect to work better than directly connecting tach to coil wires.
2) Drag handle bar. I always wanted it, I hope my back wont hurt with it.
3) Ricor Intiminator with Progressive springs. My bike is >40K miles now, I figured I have to replace the springs anyway. While doing that I will also take apart the triple tree, not that I had problems with steering, yet it must be time to inspect and put some fresh grease on it.
4) Burnett clutch and spring.
5) And the last but not least Hammer 1250 kit and ported head. I already have .575 cams, so Dan sent me push rods that are supposed to go with it.
I am really excited about this work cant wait until tomorrow when I start.
Wish me luck, I'll need it.
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  #2  
Old 20th April 2012
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ChinCactus ChinCactus is offline
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Good luck man! I can feel the excitement! I love an upgrade project.

Keep us in the loop with pics!

Jim
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  #3  
Old 20th April 2012
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rejeanprimeau rejeanprimeau is offline
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You choose to go with the Dan the living legend, good for you. Those lighter pistons really make a big difference.
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  #4  
Old 20th April 2012
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Screw Loose Dan Screw Loose Dan is offline
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Sounds like a pretty good collection of parts! Hopefully this time it meets expectations!

Quote:
Originally Posted by goblin_dust View Post
This pretty much confirmed what I suspected before; HD service has about the same rate of probability of getting the bike fixed that if otherwise I did the job myself.
Funny, I thought this enough times that I stopped using HD service.
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  #5  
Old 20th April 2012
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Good luck. Take your time and you'll be fine.

How do you plan to mount the tach? Do you have a part number for it?
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Lenster's 1250 2006 XL1250C, Hammer Crush Heads, 15 Degree Pistons, 10.5:1 CR, S&S Roller Rockers, Fixed Length Pushrods, Jim's Powerglide II Hydraulic Lifters, RedShift 585 Cams, Energy 1 Clutch w/ 15% Stronger Spring, Hammer Performance Billet Intake Manifold, Mikuni HSR 45 (25 Pilot, 157.5 Main, 96 Needle 2nd Clip from top, Y6 Needle Jet), Offset Crush AC, Cobra Power Pro HP 2:1 Exhaust and a Daytona Twin Tec TC88A with a Kickass Map by Rico 05R.

Last edited by Lenster; 20th April 2012 at 12:05.. Reason: Damn IPhone
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  #6  
Old 20th April 2012
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Looks like a great set up!! Good luck on the build
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  #7  
Old 20th April 2012
Likemlouder Likemlouder is offline
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[QUOTE=Lenster;3911165]Good luck. Take your te and you'll be fine.

+1 with any major engine work take your time and do it when there are no distractions
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  #8  
Old 20th April 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenster View Post
Good luck. Take your time and you'll be fine.

How do you plan to mount the tach? Do you have a part number for it?
I got all these parts, came out a bit pricey but a saved a few bucks buying on ebay. I will be very dissapointed if it does not function as well as it looks

BA551B22


BG004000


BE550M10


BE550M17


The billet housing was optional (especially for those how has fairing), but it should add a nice finished touch for my setup.
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  #9  
Old 22nd April 2012
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goblin_dust goblin_dust is offline
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My log from Friday Sat, Apr 20
Great disappointment so far. I spent the evening after work trying to make Koso tachometer working. Removed the gas tank and did all the wiring, yet it did not work at all. And I dont mean that it was inaccurate or erratic, I mean it showed such a ridiculous RPM so I thought I did not connect it correctly.
That particular model actually requires direct input from the battery in addition to the 12V from the ignition. I have not seen it before, most of the instruments I dealt with power only from the ignition. Other wiring was pretty ordinary, there was ground, or course, and the signal. As I powered up the bike tachometer came to live and went thru initial test cycle, it looked good. However when I fired up the engine the dial on the display went straight to 9000RPM and stayed there. I played around with the settings, trying different combination of strokes and pistons, but nothing seemed to helped. I spent the rest of the Friday night and Saturday morning trying to figure it out. Unfortunately Koso tech support was closed for w/e, so I decided to leave for now and start taking apart the cylinders instead. In mean while I will try and reach for help at Koso next week.
So, most of today I was taking apart the top end. That went smoothly, except one little hiccup. While removing one the locking springs that hold the piston pins, on of them jumped off and I could not find it. I would be a shame to hold off my assembly just because of this tiny little thing.
While taking her apart I inspected the plugs, they actually looked okay to me. I was surprised actually, considering how poorly the bike runs.


I removed the cams too, since I did not know what was causing low compression in the front cylinder in the first place, it could that cams were not aligned properly in the first place.


The cylinders and pistons were not even 10K miles old, looked pretty ordinary to me. BTW, if I were to look for signs for wear on the cylinders, what should I be looking for?


The heads are the eldest part on the bike, except of the transmission, yet I did not find anything obviously wrong with them, except that the front exhaust valve seemed a bit too oily as compared to its rear pier.





So, this is it for today. Tomorrow if I dont find that freaking locking spring I will start taking apart the triple tree. Otherwise I will start cams and engine assembly.
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Old 22nd April 2012
Likemlouder Likemlouder is offline
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were the towels in place in the block like they are now when you took the clips off
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