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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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1250, hammer performance, problem, scuffed, sportster

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  #1  
Old 4th October 2017
ROCK_4ever ROCK_4ever is offline
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Thumbs down 1250 screwed up after 3k miles

First of all, hi everyone! Before this day I only readed this forum, so this is my first post. Sorry for bad English. This winter i ordered hammer 1250 kit for my sporty, and today, after 3000 miles on it, i decided to rip her up and look how things are going.
And things are bad. Can cath this scratches on fingernail
There is no up/down movement of rods, or excessive freeplay of wristpins, so I'm confused about how things can go so wrong in just 3k miles. Also I've been confused about ring positioning on rear cylinder (kit was preassembled), but Aaron said that rings can rotate while engine operation.
Before disassembly compression was good, there was no detonation (dyna 2ki curve 4, 195/45 jets and best russian pump gas - 98RON). There are also no signs of detonation on pistons tops. Plug color tells me that I'm running slightly rich, but not critical. Heat cycles and break in done properly, like describeg in hammer instructions.

This is my first post so can,t attach images.
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  #2  
Old 4th October 2017
ROCK_4ever ROCK_4ever is offline
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I will appreciate any opinions or advices from you, guys.












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  #3  
Old 4th October 2017
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I don't know much of anything, hopefully some of the more knowledgeable guys chime in. However, from most of the similar threads in the past that I've read, tuning is often the common theme.

Did you send the photos to Hammer? What did they say?
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  #4  
Old 4th October 2017
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I would say there is a tuning problem.
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  #5  
Old 4th October 2017
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There are no dedonation/preignition signs, and bike runs great. I dont think that is tuning problem. I'd sent this photos to hammer guys, and Aaron agreed that there are no signs of detonation or overheating. He guessed that maybe there was some kind of debris in the oil. However i,ve changed oil twice during this riding season, and drained oil loooks normal. Bike also runs great, there was no oil consumtion at all. So I was very surprised when I saw that.
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  #6  
Old 4th October 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hexnut View Post
I would say there is a tuning problem.
What kind of wrong tuning can cause this?
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Old 4th October 2017
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What was your reason to tear it down after only 3k miles?
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  #8  
Old 4th October 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seajay View Post
What was your reason to tear it down after only 3k miles?
Riding season in our country was ended, and i want to do some headwork. Also I've noticed that the engine began to work a bit louder last time.
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  #9  
Old 4th October 2017
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Why did you take it apart ?
Noise ?
Smoke ?
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Piston Scuffing
This is a sure sign of overheating and/or insufficient clearance. When an engine runs hot, the pistons swell up reducing the clearance between the piston and cylinder. The cylinder bore can also distort from localized hot spots, further adding to the problem. If a piston gets hot enough, it will scuff the wall wiping material off the sides of the piston. Where this occurs will give you a clue as to the cause.
If overheating is involved, the scuffing will be primarily on the upper ring lands and on the sides near the wrist pins. There may also be oil carbon and lacquer burned onto the underside of the piston indicating it was unusually hot.
The presence of scuff marks on the lower skirt area would tend to indicate a lubrication problem rather than an overheating problem. Scuff marks on the edges or corners of the thrust sides of the piston would indicate bore distortion as the culprit. Scuffing on both thrust sides would indicate binding in the wrist pin.
Any time you find evidence of scuffing, therefore, it’s important to diagnose and correct the underlying cause to prevent a repeat failure.
If the engine was recently rebuilt, the scuffing problem may be due to insufficient assembly clearances. The only way to know is to measure the pistons and cylinders. Measure the pistons at the top, center and bottom of the skirt area in two directions (parallel to the wrist pin and perpendicular to the wrist pin) to see if the pistons are within the manufacturer’s specifications.
If the pistons are the correct size, then measure the cylinder bore at the top, middle and bottom, also in two directions (parallel to the crankshaft and perpendicular to the crankshaft). This will tell you how much taper is in the bores, and if bore distortion is a problem. By subtracting the piston dimensions from the bore dimensions, you can figure the piston-to-cylinder clearance. If the clearance is within specifications, the underlying problem is overheating.
is the piston top fuel or oil related carbon? fuel dilution/ wall wash off does not take long to do damage. what about the air inlet track that allows dirt to get in. what about torque distortion?
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