Ironhead Blown Lights, WHY?

[IronHeadRon]

So, I thought she was finally ready for her bell, bumped on a ≈5° slope after a few days cold. Kicked immediately Then my dad tells me what he noticed ...... NO LIGHTS

I solved this fxxxing problem what the hell, so I start investigating, brake light is good. I chase further and further up ...... all the way. To the headlamp. Put ot on the bench Nothing (assuming the same for the tail light but I'll chase it to be sure.

So that brings us to the title, WHY. they worked before bumping. Here are my theories

• Maybe that cap is kind of actually important, and sometimes the old regulator can't stop the voltage from rising (as resistance ain't going to drop through the light) occasionally

• Maybe it's important to turn off lights when starting (maybe the thresold switch/relay engages slightly before the limit switch/relay in the regulator

• Highly unlikely, maybe it was just thier time, at the exact same time

Luckily we have a spare headlamp, hoping the taillight is common enough. I think either way I'll wire in the cap, but still curious as to what the xxxx I did to her.


Any riding light (no cap, parallel circuits) indicating turing it off while starting is what did it, or any other theories?

EDIT, WHY DID THE HIGH BEAM BLOW THOUGH? COULD THE LOW FILAMENT AVE LIKE RAN INTO ITAND BROKE IT. IF NOT THAT THROWS ALL MY THEORIES OUT THE WINDOW, THIS IS CONFUSING

[IronHeadRon]

previousPossiblyReleventThreadAboutMyWiring

Originally Posted by JackPrice53

As Dr. Dick infers, the cap isn't "necessary", but with out it, you run the risk of popping your bulbs if there's a voltage spike large enough when the VR contacts break. Your call.

This was in the thread, but they seem so rare I am still perplexed at the high beams going out as well (we did switch back and forth when we found them not working, but that was oarked at idle and not even a flicker)

I also (for just a moment) reversed polarity when aiming headlight the night before. But immediately switched them and it worked. So I think besides possibly needing to repolarize, that's irrelevant (especially as lamps work both ways.

The tail is two hots (on two 2 state switches, toggle and spring)to a common ground through the fender, the headlamp was one hot with ground going to a tri-state switch (low, off, high) to regulator ground could that be why the high beam went. Is is a portion of filament shared by the law and high, and maybe it popped there?

Nothing (besides not using a car) was different than before except that during testing I put a better end on my headlight hot to regulator as I noticed the last one wasn't crimped well) oh and I screwed in the regulator all the way (forgot to finish when I installed it but the rubber kept it solid enough not to notice until I looked.

.....yeah that's about it.
I test and adjustment headlamp, fixing up what's mentioned above and had good lights
Then we bump her and lose low head light, high head light, and regular rear light, but not the brake light.
.....any other questions lmk

[Steve9]

Isn't the brake light sot to run at much higher amp than regular running lights?

I have a sticking front brake light switch on my dyna and when it stays on for extended periods I get a warning light on my speedo

I'm not an electrical whiz but sounds like you had a spike that blowed out the other lights and maybe the brake survived the spike?

[Ferrous Head]

So, I thought she was finally ready for her bell, bumped on a ≈5° slope after a few days cold.

Had a similar problem on my 62 XLB.

Wiring under the seat wasn't really routed correctly. When I jumped on the seat it crushed a wire against the frame. You might check there.

[ryder rick]

Might have smoked the armature. They don't like running at full output.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by Ferrous Head

Had a similar problem on my 62 XLB.

Wiring under the seat wasn't really routed correctly. When I jumped on the seat it crushed a wire against the frame. You might check there.

That was my instinct, but nope, blown bulbs (replaced and checked with battery, still need to throw the cap in but that seems like a breeze, should have a full progress report early)

My current working theory after staring at filaments and the fluke and the battery. .... my eyes are shot......tired. sorry, off track

I think one of those "voltage spikes" the cap (which I didn't install is supposed to protect from) occurred. They myst be rare having never happened before. But definitely lights, checked directly. Or maybe recent polarization made it more likely -\_o/-

Offf track again xxxx, ANYWAYS I think having the headlamp reversed and the grounds going to the switch caused a shared (supposed to be common ground, but I thought what the hell, less hot to short) blown peice of filament , shared by hi and low I mean

I think thsts why the brake light was preserved (as the hots run correctly)

Luckily we had a headlamp and taillamps for song, and we had the cap, I just like minimalism and know many run without it.

If any of thst makes sense I'll confuse you tomorrow

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by ryder rick

Might have smoked the armature. They don't like running at full output.

Hope not, but a battery didn't light them either. So unless I did both (seems unlikely, hopefully)

Would "smoking the armature" cause a spike? It seems like it would just kill all output to me, but that's just theory. Would that blow out bulbs?

you got me scared brother, wish I had a xxxxing light in the shop, I'd finish her now

And why would it be running at "Full output" wouldn't the limit relay in the regulator kick in, then is like 7½ ohm from ground to field........ I'm yired, been working on her and running around all day, maybe I'll understand what you mean tomorrow.......

Are you saying the spike the killed the bulbs may have hurt the generator? I give up thinking. I guess this'll at least light a fire under me. I do sincerely hope you are wrong about that

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by Steve9

Isn't the brake light sot to run at much higher amp than regular running lights?

I have a sticking front brake light switch on my dyna and when it stays on for extended periods I get a warning light on my speedo

I'm not an electrical whiz but sounds like you had a spike that blowed out the other lights and maybe the brake survived the spike?

That's what I'm thinking, but not because of higher resistance or anything just wasn't using the rear brake (still getting used to having g to move my foot, so I go fir fronts which have no signal

But now rick has me worried about the generator, will know tomorrow, I'm throwing in a cap to protect from spikes

[IronHeadRon]

Also, what causes these spikes, they were dead before any revving (almost positive, an epsilon on a chance I didn't notice them go out, but no way)

[Ferrous Head]

Ok Ron.

So I can understand.

1. Is this a magneto fired engine ? XLCH ? OR am XLH - battery based system ?

2. Were headlight and tail light bulbs fine until you started the bike but then both blew immediately after starting the bike ?