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  #111  
Old 30th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyCory View Post

Longer shaft length-
NOS- 4.205
Other long shaft-4.210
Short shafts where all about 4.160ish

Shaft dia-
NOS-0.496
Others-0.495-0.4955

Gear thickness-
0.437 on all.

Distance from drive gear to retaining ring groove-
2.580 on all

I have one from an 86-90 gearshaft coming in at 4.209".


And the 79 shaft at 4.212"


But, the 86 shaft only has 6 hash marks on the top of the gear where your L83-85 gear has 12.
Keep in mind all of these driveshafts are (26488-75) even though they are slightly different.


Exactly where did you measure from to get the dim on the retaining groove?


This seemed easier and more accurate to measure than eyeballing the hole.
86:


79:


The gear got about .003" thinner on the 86.


Than the 79
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  #112  
Old 30th December 2018
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The return gerotors sit between the pump body and inner plate.
(they actually sit down from the shelf about 5 thousandths from this view)
The return gerotors are app .50"
There are clearances, of course, that haven't been accounted for in this.



The plate sits on a shelf app .50" from the gerotor surface in the body.



When the spring washer pushes against the outer plate / feed gears;
It's actually pushing from the shelf that the inner plate sits on.
(not the return gerotors)

So, the resistance felt at the driveshaft gear is only generated from pressure against the feed gerotors.
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  #113  
Old 30th December 2018
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Default Outer Plate Seal Comparison

12036:
The seal slides down the shaft and is pushed against the outer plate when the cover is buttoned up.
If the seal dries up or spring washer is flexed or worn, it will allow the seal to move off it's position on the outer plate.
And allow feed oil pressure to move up into the scavenge gerotors or even the gearcase.
(which would take feed pressure from the engine which operates just over check cracking pressure at hot idle)
It would also allow faster wet sumping while sitting still.

edit: That being said;
One side of the feed gerotor surface (in the cover) being worn and not the other can cause the spring washer to lopside the outer plate.
With the early style outer plate and seal, this could also cause wet sumping.


12036A:
This is an 86 pump but the seal is the same on 83-85 plates.
This is a better design.
The seal is pressed into the outer plate bore (reason for the steel outer shell)and not dependent on forced pressure to make contact to the plate.


Any oil that gets past the seal has to come from a loose fit between the seal and the gearshaft.


Here are both seals together. They are app the same dims.
I didn't figure it would do much good to measure them.
I distorted the -36 with solvent trying to get the pump apart, now it's hardened and dried up.
I distorted the -36A while knocking it out of the plate.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 30th December 2018 at 20:31..
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  #114  
Old 22nd February 2019
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I'm wondering if this is the L83-85 oil pump body and cover.
This came from this thread.
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2072434

I can't see the -year in the pump body.
There is a "T" in the cavity in the body also.
That T also shows up in the 86-90 pump.
The 86-90 pump also has the square cut around the check valve bore.
(which may have been a progression from the 85 version.)

Here is the 86 pump numbers to compare:
1986-1990 Models - XL P/N = 26204-86
- pump body catalog p/n 26484-86
- pump body casting p/n 26485- (......no -year stamped)
… casting p/n is in return cavity
… also has a “2” stamped next to casting #
… also has a “T” stamped into opposite return cavity
- bottom cover catalog p/n 26486-86
- bottom cover casting p/n 26487-86


Possible L83 oil pump


I can't tell if that's a -75 or -75A
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  #115  
Old 28th February 2019
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Interesting... Thanks for this usefull advices. I could not imagine before how to solve this problems.
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