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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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  #61  
Old 24th July 2021
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Highly-Dangerous Highly-Dangerous is offline
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Damn... I am sorry to read this....

I did only baby it for the first 150 clicks, then I did change the fluids... no, I did not go hard on her after that.. but yes I did go up to 4K rpm and a couple times up to 5K... I did, at purpose, set the rev limiter at that because I knew I could not trust myself...

Now, I have no issues at all... the thing goes flawlessly and pulls like a Freight-Train...

BTW,

at 100 clicks I did a compression test (Cold) and it gave me 210 psi in both cylinders as per Hammer´s Calculator... spot on!

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Last edited by Highly-Dangerous; 24th July 2021 at 19:21.. Reason: adding a pic
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  #62  
Old 24th July 2021
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I originally said I didn't want to hash it out.
But you seemed to have pulled it out of me. I'm not trying tp pick on you.

It just seems to me that there is more to this than what was posted.
From what I've read, it seems you ripped too fast and didn't get everything playing nice with each other before making a bunch of changes.
I could easily be wrong.
But every one of us here making motor changes or whatevers, the ultimate responsibility rests on us, not the manuf or supplier.
That includes you. I've made a ton of changes to mine and if something goes wrong, it's my fault. same same...….
Anyways,

The tapping on the rocker bolts can be rectified with Rocker Lockers.
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...evo:engmech04l

I am not familiar with using set screws on the shafts. Any pics?
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  #63  
Old 24th July 2021
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You could easily be wrong. That I agree with. I did not bad mouth or take any jabs at Hammer. I asked if others had similar issues and relayed what the machine shops told me.
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  #64  
Old 24th July 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Rowdy View Post
I asked if others had similar issues and relayed what the machine shops told me.
I have only read a few posts in many years about conversion "mishaps" and none that I recall involve the issues you describe. The closest to your situation was due to problems with a kit not supplied by Hammer, and the vendor is now out of business. Another recent post was problems due to use of the wrong cam cover gasket, nothing to do with the engine kit.

Other than that, the overwhelming number of conversions seem to go well, mine included. At least so far it has, I feel lucky even if the odds of success are pretty good. I still sometimes half expect it to blow up at any moment, even after more than 1000 miles of excellent performance. I guess that's just me.

I think that's why you're getting so many questions and inquiries. I don't think anyone is trying to assign blame, just gather as much information as we can. Everyone's experiences can help someone down the road.

Since so many of us have done conversions, anyone having conversion issues is going to peak our interest. I know it's certainly got me interested in the diagnosis. Most of us that do conversions are probably way too anal and OCD in the first place.

Good luck, we're all with you!

John
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  #65  
Old 24th July 2021
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Bottom line here is that you are certain you followed the instructions correctly, and it does sound like you did except for the urge to hammer it a bit early (which we are all likely to be accused of at some point). Once Hammer gets the parts back to you, just do it again, and I recommend not pulling it apart until after it gets 500 miles on it this time (unless it starts demanding that you pull it apart). None of us are aware of any more than a couple of real problems with other Hammer kits so it's likely that the second time around will be perfect unless you are extremely unlucky.

Personally I would pull that carb apart and clean it out good again just for being anal about it. Make sure it can't be lean. What main jet is in it? You said it wanted to fall flat at around what 5500 rpm? I worked on one a while back that did that with a 160 main jet in it, and it took a 170 to cure it. I forget what carb it was, but I think I remember it being a CV40. If somehow the main jet is too small, then it will be crazy lean at anywhere past 3/4 throttle (which could account for the scuffing when you did get on the throttle some). Were there any black specs on the porcelain of the plugs? I would also make sure (again) that the ignition is not advanced.

These are just ideas that come up as I think about the issue. Some ideas may seem so simple as to be disrespectful, but where would I or anyone else know where to draw the line? We just throw stuff out, and hopefully something will be just what you need. It may even be a reminder of something that you know.

I just caught myself doing something stupid a couple of hours ago. I sat down to take a break and was thinking that the gaps I just set were way too tight. Went back and re read the instructions, and it said "bore X .005" I had missed the bore part. Point being that simple screw ups happen.
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  #66  
Old 25th July 2021
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I have quadruple checked everything. Nothing ever goes together without me making absolutely sure that it is correct. I don't guess, I don't rush and I don't half ass anything. Everything was done according to either Hammer, Feuling or Dyna, usually with a consult to Aaron if there were any questions. The leanest jet that this has had in it was a 180, on a freshly done CV that was verified as running properly on my Twin Cam prior to using it on the Sportster.

Not for nothing but I grew up building engines, hot rods, motorcycles, raced motocross, build my own engines, did my own suspension, got paid to build hot rods, paint cars, fabricate, built custom bikes from top to bottom that have been in magazines, drag cars, street cars, diesels, European cars and everything in between. This is not my first time around the block. If I ask questions it is because I have major OCD and HAVE to know everything about what I'm working on. I'm no engineer but I have a pretty healthy understanding of thermodynamics. So when something isn't right I have to get to the bottom of it immediately.

But like anything, someone always has more experience with a particular platform and knows little details that perhaps I haven't thought of. So I have no shame in asking questions.
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  #67  
Old 25th July 2021
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I am waiting to see what Hammer finds out.
But if you'll start a build thread and keep everything in that one thread, it'll help everybody stay on the same page with the progress.
And maybe we can see problems that may occur during the build.
And the best part is, maybe we can all learn something from your build.

We've seen a lot of builds on this forum and from those experiences both good and bad,
That compiles a basic list of things that we know to check for and maybe some things that aren't a good idea.
Collectively, there is enough experience from forum members here to build anything you want.
I don't think any of us here know everything.
But we do try to help people get the best of their engines.
So advice given is meant to help.
Taking the advice of course is up the individual.
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  #68  
Old 24th August 2021
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I read the whole thread. Very interesting!
Any updates?
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  #69  
Old 24th August 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salmanmr View Post
I read the whole thread. Very interesting!
Any updates?
600 miles on the new top end and it seems good although I am still having issues with the ignition module. Tach output from the Dyna still not working, running the coil off the tach like factory gets me signal but the other day it just decided to start missing very badly and the tach was jumping all over the place. Put the factory module in and it seemed to clear up. So I will be sending the Dyna back for warranty.

This has been a pretty frustrating build. And despite the judgment of people I am fully confident that I have not done anything to cause the issues.

Anyhow, that's where it's at. Waiting for warranty replacement again..
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  #70  
Old 25th August 2021
Turbo Sporty 48 Turbo Sporty 48 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Rowdy View Post
600 miles on the new top end and it seems good although I am still having issues with the ignition module. Tach output from the Dyna still not working, running the coil off the tach like factory gets me signal but the other day it just decided to start missing very badly and the tach was jumping all over the place. Put the factory module in and it seemed to clear up. So I will be sending the Dyna back for warranty.

This has been a pretty frustrating build. And despite the judgment of people I am fully confident that I have not done anything to cause the issues.

Anyhow, that's where it's at. Waiting for warranty replacement again..
EDIT: New thread http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2079936

Last edited by Turbo Sporty 48; 26th August 2021 at 18:33..
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