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  #41  
Old 18th November 2018
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you can get a phase converter to run 3ph on 1ph. a lot of our equipment runs on one. the down side is that you lose 1/3 of the hp. the better is a rotary phase converter.
this is where you run a higher hp 3ph motor on phase converter and then tap off the 3 ph windings to run the downstream 3 ph motor.
to run a 5 hp motor, you would need a 10 hp parent motor, you will not lose any power.
if you need some plans to build one, pm me and i can send them.
for the home shop, the phase converter will work since you are really not taxing you equipment. (hope not at least).
i often get asked why such a large parent motor. well, it will see its free running amps and the slave motor load so the trick is to stay under the full load rating of the parent motor.
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  #42  
Old 18th November 2018
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on the chrome removal
chemical strip, make sure you put a rubber plug in the opening so the inside does not get messed up. also install block off any other holes.
abrasive strip using fine grit. if you are powder coating, make a good base
reverse electro-plating. need electrolyte, good DC current source (no ac ripple) and a sacrificial piece of material for the plating to go to.
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  #43  
Old 18th November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
if you need some plans to build one, pm me and i can send them.
Let me see how things turn out to see if I'll be getting the Bridgeport or not.
I was the last qualified person their to run the machines.
Rumor has it the machines will now be sold to make way for office space.
Else I'll probably end up with a 110 gearhead.

I discovered I was using the wrong technique to polish with.
I was using round circles as in sanding.
There are 2 principles at work here, cutting and polishing, as in the Caswell PDF.


With the rotation of the Dremil (to the right in the pic below), R to L movement is cutting action and L to R movement is polishing action.

So, by using a circle pattern, I was cutting some and not cutting some.
I changed to a larger oval pattern and started a slow path from L to R, finished that and re-did from R to L.
The finish was a dramatic improvement.


I then wet sanded again with 600 grit, used 5 passes of black, and 3 yellow in the patterns above as well as doing the same front to back.

And here's where I get off this train.



I think I've gone as far as I want with the Dremil.
At this point, I'm just moving reflective points around.
The surface is far finer than 1200 grit.
Every time I sand up to that, I polish for hours to get back to where I'm at now.

I'm hard headed but enough is enough now.
At least I got a better idea of polishing now without a sander.
And, this is definitely the best I've done, ever.
It's a win-win.
The finish looks great unless your taking pics that show every grain.
Good enough for me.
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Last edited by Hippysmack; 19th November 2018 at 16:33.. Reason: Labeled the pic wrong.
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  #44  
Old 19th November 2018
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well, i say it is remarkable in view of the fact that you are using small instruments. that makes it extremely hard. if you factor in having to hold the parts by hand even makes it harder.
sometimes, we will stack the buffs or abrasive wheels.
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  #45  
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I thought about trying that with the Dremil but I was concerned I'd spin off and loose the little screw on the mandrel.
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  #46  
Old 21st November 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graywolf View Post
Perfection can become a bad thing. .....but there is a point when you gotta just say enough is enough and start on the next part.
Ok, I already said I was hard headed. But, you're right.

First, I found I had a sisal wheel given to me in a pile of barn tools.


I had to rig the mandrel with a washer on the front and back of the wheel to keep the wheel from sliding down the mandrel.


I could immediately tell the difference.
You can see where it cut down what the Dremil pads couldn't.


After 3 passes with the sisal wheel using the black bar, the ripples are gone.
You can see through my strainer on the peg board.


The sisal still left large swirl (seemingly scratches) when viewed from the side.
I assume a cloth wheel would now make those less ugly.


Up close at the same angle!


And here's what broke me.
Keep in mind this IS stainless steel.
I ran my fingernail across the finish a few times and scratched it as a test.
Only to find that the fingernail scratches won't wipe off. They have to be buffed out.



So, I could keep going until I did get a mirror finish from all angles with a host of different pads.
But, I would not get to keep it that way in use.

edit:
However, afterabout60hours, I did manage to go,
From this

To this

Last edited by Hippysmack; 21st November 2018 at 01:18..
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  #47  
Old 21st November 2018
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I have not seen anybody trying to scratch any of my stainless steel brackets with their fingernails. The worse thing they get is some bugs smashed on them and those will come right off with a little work leaving the finish just as it was before the bugs hit it. The brackets have been on the front end for a little over 10 years and they still look just about the same as they did when I first built them and polished them. I can't say that for some of the chrome stuff that has been on the bike bike for 10 plus years.
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  #48  
Old 21st November 2018
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Well, I wouldn't count on folks scratching it with fingernails but I just noticed how easy the finish can be marred to the point that a quick polish won't fix.

I will definitely be using this way of polishing from now on.
I'm just not sure to what degree.

Don't get me wrong,
I love working with stainless. I use it whenever I can.
I was just trying to see what I could accomplish.
But, with the time I've got in it, a few scratches or ripples still don't bother me.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 21st November 2018 at 03:19..
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