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  #11  
Old 4th June 2009
Oldwrench Oldwrench is offline
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Default Rear Brake Pads

I don't use the rear brake much, so I still have plenty of material remaining with over 30,000 miles on the original pads.

On the earlier Sportsters, the rear caliper DOES need to be removed first to replace the pads. It is sometimes hard to actually see the pad thickness with the caliper in place, especially the inner pad. It doesn't hurt anything to pull the caliper to get a good look. There is no trick to simply putting the caliper back in place as long as no one touches the brake pedal while it is off.
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  #12  
Old 5th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xena View Post
It's not necessary to remove the caliper to inspect or replace the pads.
Replaced mine last summer following the service manual. Was fairly
simple imo and I had never done them before.
how did you do that without taking the caliper off the frame? Is this a newer model thing?
mine's a 1998, and unless you take the wheel off, there's no way to get at the pads. the manual says to do it that way, and I assumed that it would be similar enough.
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  #13  
Old 5th June 2009
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Argent if I'm wrong I stand corrected. I didn't think an 01
sporty would be that much different but it sounds like it may be.
The rubbermounts are simple to replace the pads, just remove
the pad pin and they pop right out both front and rear.
Don't think it was more than 10 minutes to replace both sets.
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  #14  
Old 5th June 2009
argentcorvid argentcorvid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xena View Post
Argent if I'm wrong I stand corrected. I didn't think an 01
sporty would be that much different but it sounds like it may be.
The rubbermounts are simple to replace the pads, just remove
the pad pin and they pop right out both front and rear.
Don't think it was more than 10 minutes to replace both sets.
no need to apologize, obviously they changed the design somewhere in there. I'm not sure when they changed it (2003, like everything else?).

So what you're saying is that it went from pretty easy, to really, really easy?
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  #15  
Old 5th June 2009
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldwrench View Post
I can't quite bring myself to let the pads wear down to the 1/16" the book allows. Logic says it's okay. The little hairs on the back of my neck say otherwise. When they get much under 1/8th inch I replace them.
I've got to agree with you on that.
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  #16  
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Maybe "ignorant is bliss"..as I have over 20K on mine.....and they still stop great........and aren't making any noise. I've looked at them and I still have pads!

PS: I ride real hard too!

Maybe I better go look again

EDIT: just looked....fronts in great shape........and I use them HARD........rears.......not so good!
Now I'm going to need to replace them!

Now here's another question: Chicago Harley 42836-04 $47.96 42836-04 A $32.76 ?
Anyone know the difference?
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  #17  
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Anytime you see a part number with an A or B behind it, it's been upgraded. Hopefully for the better. Maybe the original pad material wore down too quickly, etc... Why it's cheaper, who knows, but I wouldn't complain.

Between you and me, for that kind of money, I would buy aftermarket pads. I like EBC. Lots of others to choose from also.
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  #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brprider View Post
Anytime you see a part number with an A or B behind it, it's been upgraded. Hopefully for the better. Maybe the original pad material wore down too quickly, etc... Why it's cheaper, who knows, but I wouldn't complain.

Between you and me, for that kind of money, I would buy aftermarket pads. I like EBC. Lots of others to choose from also.
Just orderd a pair of Lyndall pads!
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  #19  
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I would replace them quick. It would a big pain to replace the rotors because of worn bake pads.
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  #20  
Old 5th June 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWP 5p View Post
Just orderd a pair of Lyndall pads!
I keep hearing good things about Lyndall pads. I think I'm going to try those next.
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