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  #11  
Old 26th April 2018
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OOpps, I thought it was a 2006 bike. Check the stepper motor (I think your bike has one) and enrichment table. Just a guess because I don't know much about EFI. Call Hammer.
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  #12  
Old 27th April 2018
201648Rider 201648Rider is offline
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Still waiting on a compression tester adapter but it looks like I have indeed failed a head gasket on the front cylinder;

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mSvTuYaetD1DAZyc9
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  #13  
Old 27th April 2018
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Yeah, that doesn't look good. Hopefully that's it. Kinda a pain to have to take it all apart again, but should be relatively easy to address.

I presume you used the Cometic gaskets that Hammer normally recommends/supplies?
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  #14  
Old 30th April 2018
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Correct I used the Hammer .30 x 3.625. I just ordered another complete kit. Doesn't hurt to have spares I guess, and I still have the factory motor to re-assemble.

I think my lack of patience warming the bike up before riding is likely what caused the fault. I try to be quick about it in the am so I don't wake the neighbors and usually similarly when leaving work.

Any ideas what temps I should be trying to keep the bike under? I have also been hitting a lot of stop/go traffic due to construction on my commute and wonder what the "shut-off" point should be when things climb to high.
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Old 30th April 2018
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I doubt you blew a head gasket because you weren't warming the bike up. My (limited) experience has been head gaskets fail because poor assembly technique or a much bigger issue internally to the engine. Anything is possible I guess, but I would be surprised not warming the bike caused an issue (presuming you weren't going full throttle on a cold engine). You might find loose head bolts when you tear it down.

I've never gotten a good answer to what the highest engine temperature should be. And, to be clear - we are talking about Engine Temperature (ET) as reported by the ECM, NOT oil temperature. I usually don't fret until I get ET's over 400°F. The majority of the time I'll see ~380°F fully warmed up. I pay close attention when I'm in the low 400's, but I don't think I've ever stopped riding. From what I've read on here, some see low 400 ET's on a regular basis. One of the most consistent ways for me to achieve those temperatures is at continuous highway speeds with my feet back on the passenger pegs. I usually just move my legs back to the regular pegs and watch the temps drop to more normal levels. Only once do I think I saw temps even close to that in stop and go traffic (but I tend to avoid traffic when at all possible).

BTW - If you read other forums, disregard anything you read about BT's and their ET's. The sensors on Sportsters are in a much different location and the two numbers can not be compared in any meaningful way.
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  #16  
Old 1st May 2018
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Ok those temps are in-line with what I'm seeing on my dynojet.
If I get stuck in stop/go I swing north of 400 in about 15 minutes. The highest it climbed was 450 but I babied it to a lot to let it cool.

It very well could be poor assembly on my part. It was my first assembly and I had the jugs on/off too many times to count. Fingers crossed its a quick fix and back on the road by next weekend if the parts arrive.

Coincidentally my riding mower also popped its headgasket but its a briggs so should be as simple as the HD .
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  #17  
Old 2nd May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 201648Rider View Post
Coincidentally my riding mower also popped its headgasket but its a briggs so should be as simple as the HD .
201648Rider,

Thanks for making an old retired tech smile. Reps.
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  #18  
Old 2nd May 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 201648Rider View Post
It was my first assembly and I had the jugs on/off too many times to count.
201648Rider,

Began following your posts when you rode to the west coast.

Questions:
- What problems caused you to have to remove the jugs “too many times to count”?
- Which ring compressor did you use?
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  #19  
Old 2nd May 2018
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jzink0883,

I'm really itching to get back out there, I'm thinking a trip in June but not on the sporty .

The 1275 kit came with pistons already installed in new jugs.

The first round I installed these on the factory motor, torqued everything down, decided I didn't trust the dealers diagnosis....pulled everything and found a bent rod in the front cylinder, which is what was causing the knock that sent to the dealer in the first place. (my final guess to the cause is that I sucked water riding in the rain, although I was really quick to blame the fuelpak tune).

On the second engine I'm sure I had things torqued down quite a few different times checking squish clearances and just second guessing everything. Its possible i could have nicked or damaged the gasket taking things on/off...and even more possible things just worked loose.

I'm pretty confident I had everything torqued down per Hammers instructions, but I was also pretty confident I put the pushrods in correctly the first time. .
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  #20  
Old 14th May 2018
201648Rider 201648Rider is offline
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Finally got around to replacing the head gasket.
Turns out it was leaking right at the oil passage towards the ront of the front cylinder.

Somewhere along the line I lost the top engine mount bolt on this side of the jug. Thinking maybe its possible that could have contributed to the failure otherwise I'm guessing I might have dmg the gasket during install.

Everything seemed torqued down still. Hopefully this one holds up for a bit longer!



Went for a test ride and the hesitation was gone, but its still pretty cool out and we're getting thunderstorms all net week so I'll have to take it on a longer ride in the near future.
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