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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #31  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
The spring plate is fine I think. There would've been some signs of failure - the rivets shearing/breaking - but there was nothing of the sort. The inside of the primary was clean - you might mistake it for a brand new bike other than the wear marks on the primary chain shoe.

I have a bench vise and all sorts of hand/power tools but no actual press. I have no idea how much force the bearing will need to seat properly into the release plate. But I guess that's what the inter-web is for, maybe somebody has posted a video or some info of a DIY solution.
Just saying but mine recently had a spring plate failure and you could have eaten off the primary.
Very clean and absolutely no indication of a problem until after pulling the clutch plates out

I believe if you primary is off then def check the spring plate.
It does not take long and once you check it then bin it anyways
Just my 2c

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  #32  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Thanks NZ I'm going to try just swapping the bearing first see if that cures it...I'd rather not have to mess with the clutch pack if I can help it. But it could be the spring plate as there is a lot of in/out movement of the adjuster screw. Maybe it's normal but it seems like a lot. When I loosen it I mean. But I am surprised to hear that you didn't see any signs of failure.
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  #33  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
I'd rather not have to mess with the clutch pack if I can help it.
I'm nearly 100% certain the release bearing is shot... But that might not be the only problem...

I'll take a step back here from just replacing the release bearing and say - since you have 36K on the bike and the primary is going to be open anyway --- If it were me --- I'd pull the clutch pack just to be sure there is no spring plate damage... It doesn't sound like there is, but as others have suggested, you never know for sure until you look or the problem really gets worse...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on clutch diaphragm spring compressor tools:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...k:ref:tools115

In fact, if it were me, I'd replace the spring plate with two steels & a friction while I had the clutch pack out - then you're sure never to have that problem... (the trade off is a bit more grabby clutch engagement)

But that's just me - I like to do maintenance repairs or replace wearing parts once I have something apart so I don't have to mess with stuff in that area a second time...

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  #34  
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Ya I know that's the best thing to do but I never messed with clutch pates before and also I don't plan on keeping this bike too much longer. Even so I may just do it, at least pull the pack and get a close look at the SP. It depends how quickly I can swap out the bearing. But from what I've read those Barnett clutches make for a tougher pull on the lever and I don't want any parts of that. Most of my riding is city streels lots of traffic and lights, lot of shifting gears so I prefer an easy clutch. I don't know gotta do more research we'll see. Thanks for the suggestion.
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  #35  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canoli View Post
Y But from what I've read those Barnett clutches make for a tougher pull on the lever and I don't want any parts of that.
I have heard that too, but my experience after 3 years with the Barnett has not shown that. What I have experienced is a more positive engagement with the clutch and less slip on shifting under heavy acceleration. I kept the stock clutch spring and wonder if part of the difference is that most move up to a heavier spring.

Also, the clutch pack disassembly/assembly is not that hard. Several really good u-tube videos to walk you right through it. you do need a clutch spring tool (also several good videos on making your own)
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  #36  
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Hey All -

Thank you very much for your help this past week. I bought the assembly (bearing and release plate together), it was delivered yesterday ($28.50 incl 2-day shipping) and after installing it this afternoon the clutch is back to normal.

It was an easy job, took about an hour. The 5 or 6 tries to get the adjustment right took about 15 minutes ... there's a different feel now with a new bearing (that's what I'm telling myself anyway lol).

Reversible snap-ring pliers made the job simple. There are 2 retaining rings to remove, the larger inner one and the outer one on the adj screw. The hardest part was deciding how much oil to add. I put in about 28oz and it looked low so I added the rest of the quart. The FSM (91-92) has "40oz" in a few places but I couldn't bring myself to dump in more than a quart.

The bike ran great riding home. I hit a lot of red lights and the clutch got a good workout. Maybe I'll eventually add more oil...I'd love to hear from anyone who's got a '92. Like IXL mentioned earlier why would a '94 take 28oz but the '92 needs 40oz.? I know the primary covers are different but not that different.

Well thanks again you guys. I couldn't have done it without you. Now it's on to the next project, new bushings and bars... Happy Riding!
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Glad to hear 'you did it yourself' - always a good feeling to make your own repairs - It gives you confidence for the next effort on the bike...

Ride Safe...

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