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  #1  
Old 3rd March 2021
Paul.W Paul.W is offline
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Default Newbie Full Rebuild Help Thread

Hello everyone. My name is Paul. Iím starting this thread in hopes that some folks may want to follow along and help a newbie out. Iím going to post the questions and issues Iím having one by one as I get to them. There will be a lot of them. If there are people that would find it entertaining to help me figure out how to complete this bike I would appreciate it incredibly. I canít tell you how much I want this bike.

To make a very long story short Iím trying to rebuild a 2000 1200S which has been taken apart basically completely. Iím a little dumb and have made a lot of mistakes during this process. Iíve got the manual and have watched a ton of YouTube videos, but still seem to be mechanically disinclined.

Sorry if I put some posts in the wrong spot, say something dumb, ask a question thatís already been covered, or otherwise do something annoying. If I do itís out of I didnít know better and not that Iím trying to be lazy or disregard how things are done. Also please let me know if anything I post needs more detail or pictures or whatever. All I can say is thanks to anyone who decides to follow the thread and offer any advice and wisdom.
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  #2  
Old 3rd March 2021
Paul.W Paul.W is offline
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My first issues are about the gas tank, each numbered below. I used Black Magic tank sealer on the gas tank.

1. I thought it made sense to coat the area where the cap screws in. Unfortunately I didnít think about the fact that the gas threads would in effect get smaller and now the cap wonít fit. I called the company and they suggested to use paint thinner and then try to chip it away. It doesnít really work and Iím worried about banging up the tank trying. Does anyone know a good way to remove this area of sealer?

2. I apparently didnít shake the tank properly while it was setting so it didnít fully cover the top of the spine on the bottom of the tank, so I have to recoat the tank. While Iím at it, Iím worried about the air line that runs through the tank and how to keep it from rusting in the future since just swishing the sealer around wonít reach it. Is there any way to spread the sealer on to the air line?

3. Another problem Iím having is that at the bottom drain of the tank the sealer that drained out dried to halfway clog the drain. Is there a better way than a drill to try to remove this? Iím worried that I might damage the tank in the process. I would also like to leave enough sealer along this drain to keep it form rusting, but still fit the petcock. Is there a good way to get just a thin enough coating on it?
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  #3  
Old 3rd March 2021
xlh883-1987 xlh883-1987 is offline
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Default

Hi
I will start here
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/start
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  #4  
Old 4th March 2021
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thecarfarmer thecarfarmer is offline
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Some of us consider tank sealer to be an evil thing, which causes as many problems as it solves... if you're adverse to just tossing that tank and starting with a good part, you might try using some paint stripper in the threaded area - but it will be very easy to drop some inside the tank (causing more problems)

If you put it on the threads and then put the tank upside down. Where it could drop on your pain on the exterior of the tank... ugh, not a good solution, there, either.


Die grinder/dremel could get in there, but then you've got to get all the dust out of the tank.

Lots of ways you can go, many having potential for more drama.
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  #5  
Old 11th March 2021
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AZbiker AZbiker is offline
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Ditch the tank, get another one. Sealer is the devil.

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  #6  
Old 11th March 2021
Roscoe13 Roscoe13 is offline
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And I will start at: Get the service manual.

Roscoe
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  #7  
Old 11th March 2021
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sungod sungod is offline
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Default newbie

Welcome! Don"t throw anything away. If man or woman made it man and woman can fix it. Re tap the gas tank thread.Protect the paint and sand away anything you don't want. It may take some time so stay positive!
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  #8  
Old 12th March 2021
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rokytnji rokytnji is offline
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Threads can usually be chased out with a starter tap and die set vs a bottoming tap and die set. Starter tap looks like so with a pointy end to help in chasing out the beginning of the thread.
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  #9  
Old 1 Week Ago
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I will tell you before you ask: the ignition system from 98-03 is totally different from any o the sportster. If you have the stock wiring harness you can use original components. You can get the four tower coil from the after market. Ignition modules are scarce and the screamin' eagle modules are more so. They occasionally pop up on ebay. You may be better off getting an aftermarket module and coils as the S model coils aren't recommended. If you can, get a module that uses a map sensor like the original. Basically like a vacuum advance can on automobiles. Just my opinion, use at your own risk.

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