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  #11  
Old 25th October 2012
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Once more thing: Wet plugs indicates that you are getting fuel, but not necessarily the correct mixture. If it sounds like it wants to start, then you are likely getting spark, but not necessarily good spark or at the right time. Considering your WOT balk, with response when backed off at 3/4, yes that could mean too small a main jet (or mid-range circuit), but it also could be a serious vacuum leak.

Is this a California bike with an evap recovery canister? If so, check vacuum lines to it, as well as to the vacuum operated petcock and VOES.
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  #12  
Old 25th October 2012
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Regarding vacuum hoses, see this link http://xlforum.net/forums/s....php?t=1483180
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  #13  
Old 30th October 2012
sslnight sslnight is offline
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Ok i finally got to play with her today and have been able to finally duplicate the issue. I pulled both plugs and they were not wet (no fuel). The plugs did have alot of carbon on them (this could be the sea foam i ran through the tank). I also checked and it appears the bike is a california spec meaning it does have an evap canister.

I had replaced the hose that connects to the voes from the petcock 2 months ago but have yet to test/replace the voes. I doubt the voes will prevent the bile from starting based on my research.

Soooo no fuel.....?
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  #14  
Old 30th October 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslnight View Post
Ok i finally got to play with her today and have been able to finally duplicate the issue. I pulled both plugs and they were not wet (no fuel). The plugs did have alot of carbon on them (this could be the sea foam i ran through the tank). I also checked and it appears the bike is a california spec meaning it does have an evap canister.

I had replaced the hose that connects to the voes from the petcock 2 months ago but have yet to test/replace the voes. I doubt the voes will prevent the bile from starting based on my research.

Soooo no fuel.....?
VOES would only be an issue for mid-range RPM and up.
However, a crack in the vacuum line to the VOES or the vacuum operated petcock may affect starting.
If you have good vacuum, I would next check for operation of the petcock.
If it (or the diaphragm) is original...and it is still good, I would be very surprised.
Did you again check for spark at the plugs, while they were/are out?
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  #15  
Old 30th October 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
VOES would only be an issue for mid-range RPM and up.
However, a crack in the vacuum line to the VOES or the vacuum operated petcock may affect starting.
If you have good vacuum, I would next check for operation of the petcock.
If it (or the diaphragm) is original...and it is still good, I would be very surprised.
Did you again check for spark at the plugs, while they were/are out?
So for the starting the voes itself is not the issue. Check. As for starting i do not have a vacuum checker so i may have to pick one up. I replaced the petcock so recently with a new harley part so recently that i want to rule it out but i know that i want to rule it out (i know it could have been made on a monday or a friday and still be bad even if its only 2 months old.

I did not look at the sparkplugs this time as there was no wetness on them.
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  #16  
Old 30th October 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslnight View Post
So for the starting the voes itself is not the issue. Check. As for starting i do not have a vacuum checker so i may have to pick one up. I replaced the petcock so recently with a new harley part so recently that i want to rule it out but i know that i want to rule it out (i know it could have been made on a monday or a friday and still be bad even if its only 2 months old.

I did not look at the sparkplugs this time as there was no wetness on them.
No need for a vacuum gauge, although they are cheap.
You can feel vacuum, when it is running, with your finger on the end of the line.
Let's try a different approach: Pull the fuel line from the carb and check for flow. Although if your accelerator pump squirts, you do have some fuel in the bowl.
Did you try starting fluid? If you have spark, at close to the right time, you should get some response from starting fluid...that would indicate that adequate fuel or fuel mixture is a problem. If no response, then we are back to spark.
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  #17  
Old 30th October 2012
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There is also the possibility of two problems, at the same time.
Do you have good voltage to the coils?
Are the primary (12 VDC) connections to the coils good?
Did you unscrew the secondary (high voltage) connections, to check for corrosion?
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  #18  
Old 31st October 2012
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I havnt had the chance to pull the fuel line from the carb to check for fuel as i have not had the problem due to not having the time to ride for a long period. I did pick up some starter fluid that im keeping in my toolbag along with a spark plug socket and wrench so i can add it as needed when it happens.

Today i rode it to work expecting it to not start but.... i pulled the choke all the way out and held it while i started and it started right up. This in the past is where it always seemed to not start and was pissing me off. I would pull the choke out and it would slide back a bit and i would just ignore it. This time i didnt and she started right up.

I am back from work now and she is having a hard time starting. I sprayed the starter fluid directly into the carb for at least 3 seconds as per the instructions but she did not start. I think that through your diags this leads back to the electral problem being the issue here.

I did not check the ignition coils as i replaced the coil with a SE module less than a month ago.

So based on this (and i will confirm after a few runs like this) it seems that the logical solution is the ignition module especially if i can eliminitate the cold starting issue by holding the choke out during cold starts.

So what says you?
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  #19  
Old 31st October 2012
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sportsterdoc sportsterdoc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslnight View Post
I havnt had the chance to pull the fuel line from the carb to check for fuel as i have not had the problem due to not having the time to ride for a long period. I did pick up some starter fluid that im keeping in my toolbag along with a spark plug socket and wrench so i can add it as needed when it happens.

Today i rode it to work expecting it to not start but.... i pulled the choke all the way out and held it while i started and it started right up. This in the past is where it always seemed to not start and was pissing me off. I would pull the choke out and it would slide back a bit and i would just ignore it. This time i didnt and she started right up.

I am back from work now and she is having a hard time starting. I sprayed the starter fluid directly into the carb for at least 3 seconds as per the instructions but she did not start. I think that through your diags this leads back to the electral problem being the issue here.

I did not check the ignition coils as i replaced the coil with a SE module less than a month ago.

So based on this (and i will confirm after a few runs like this) it seems that the logical solution is the ignition module especially if i can eliminitate the cold starting issue by holding the choke out during cold starts.

So what says you?
Unless you have a loose connection to the coil, probably on the primary side, the ignition module is a likely culprit, as most of the "cheap fixes" have likely (not for sure) been eliminated. For example, a worn ignition switch that intermittently makes contact has not been ruled out...unless you checked for voltage to the primary side of the coil, each time it would not start.
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  #20  
Old 31st October 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sslnight View Post

I am back from work now and she is having a hard time starting.

So what says you?
Was it firing? Was it trying to start? Was the motor HOT or just warm?
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