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brake pads, drum brake rebuild, rear drum brake

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  #1  
Old 10th March 2015
savagegarden savagegarden is offline
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Default how free is 'freely'? rear drum brake and adjusting nut

Trans is in the mail and will be here wednesday. In the meantime, I'm tackling a few of the remaining problems on the bike (need to still drill out my cracked roll pin).

*I understand this might be a futile attempt because I haven't set my chain adjustment* But figured I'd put it out there to get some ideas of why it might not be working well.

The rear brake pads seem to be grabbing, but it could also be an out-of-round drum.

Without applying brake and the brake rod adjusting nut to this distance, nothing grabs:



Looks way too far out and I also need more than 1 1/4 brake lever distance to get some grab.

What is the proper distance for the brake rod adjusting nut from the end of the brake rod?

Tried to re-center the shoes but it didn't do anything. I still hear a grabbing/scratching sound when trying to turn the wheel without any pressure applied to the brake.

Here are some vids:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9aWWLbLLIA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdSK12FOvLg

I'll probably remove the wheel tomorrow to examine the drum, but in the meantime some feedback would be helpful.

Last edited by savagegarden; 10th March 2015 at 04:16.. Reason: caveat
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  #2  
Old 10th March 2015
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Should be freer than that. When you spin the wheel like you are doing in the vids, it should go at least several rounds before s l o w i n g down. More than what you're showing there and it shouldn't come to an abrupt stop either.
Definitely some brake drum rubbing noises there.
You'll need to pull it down and look for wear marks or any tell tale signs of worn parts,wear,rubbing,missing parts, etc.....
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Old 10th March 2015
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Is the rubbing sound for sure coming from the drum, there is no tire rub anywhere? If not I agree with what's been said take it apart and check for signs of wear or missing parts, it should spin allot freer then that.
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Old 10th March 2015
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New pads? Arm should be somewhere around 1130 am. But shoe thickness standard or...? They do run in or drag in spots. Seems excessive for where you have it. Some fit the new shoes by taking out the high spots full even full engagement. Others let them wear in. Arm should be closer for sure.

This is my arm with around 3000 miles on shoes. about 12 o'clock


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Old 10th March 2015
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Am? What if like the pm position better lol, good advice tho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1980hdsporster View Post
Am? What if like the pm position better lol, good advice tho
Damn, you're right and its daylight savings now too.LOL
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Old 10th March 2015
savagegarden savagegarden is offline
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brianbs67 I notice you also have a nut on the end of your brake rod, does that help ensure the placement of the brake rod adjusting nut? Thanks for the help

Looks like I'll be taking the wheel off tomorrow night
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Old 10th March 2015
simeli simeli is offline
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Watching the video, I would say you need to make sure the brakes are centered.

Question,

Are these new shoes?

If so are they over sized?

Did you "fit" the shoes?

Is your drum round?

Is the sprocket running true?
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Its probably not necessary, but i left it from PO. The spring and shape of adjuster kinda keep everything where it belongs.
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Old 10th March 2015
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I centered the brakes, but tbh it made it a bit worse--stiffer rub.

Yes they are new shoes. I didn't put them on, my mechanic Junior at AMR Auto in Chicago did (who I would never recommend as an ironhead mechanic). Maybe they could use some braking in/smoothing out.

I'll remove the shoes tomorrow to give them a thorough look through for size and fit. Check the sprocket and also check the roundness of the drum to the best of my abilities--any suggestions there would be great. Can they be machined or is it usually a high spot in a brake pad?
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