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  #81  
Old 12th December 2019
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After looking at Time-sert vs helicoil I would rather use a Time-sert and be done with it. When I get home tonight I will be measuring the depth of the two center holes and look at which kit might work best as far as depth.



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  #82  
Old 12th December 2019
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Take pics, we'd like to see the progress.

edit:
These are ReddTigger's pics with time serts.
It does appear to be on the left side however. Those holes are farther apart than the right side.







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  #83  
Old 13th December 2019
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So I did some measuring. Looks like the threaded portion of the studs are just under 1 inch- 0.936" and the hole in the case at its shortest point is 1.335"

So it looks like the shorter Timesert kit is the one to go with.

It says the inserts are .900"Long. Seems like that should be a really good fit.

Hippy the holes on the right side case definitely are closer together than the left side case.

I think I'm going to order that kit with additional inserts so I can practice a few before going for it.

Before I order it though any other suggestions from anyone?

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  #84  
Old 13th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Scoot View Post
So I did some measuring. Looks like the threaded portion of the studs are just under 1 inch- 0.936" and the hole in the case at its shortest point is 1.335"

So it looks like the shorter Timesert kit is the one to go with.

It says the inserts are .900"Long. Seems like that should be a really good fit.

Hippy the holes on the right side case definitely are closer together than the left side case.

I think I'm going to order that kit with additional inserts so I can practice a few before going for it.

Before I order it though any other suggestions from anyone?

Sent from my BlackBerry

USE kerosene or wd 40 for drilling into aluminum.



i used a red loctite
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  #85  
Old 14th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Scoot View Post
So I did some measuring. Looks like the threaded portion of the studs are just under 1 inch- 0.936" and the hole in the case at its shortest point is 1.335"

So it looks like the shorter Timesert kit is the one to go with.

It says the inserts are .900"Long. Seems like that should be a really good fit.

Hippy the holes on the right side case definitely are closer together than the left side case.

I think I'm going to order that kit with additional inserts so I can practice a few before going for it.

Before I order it though any other suggestions from anyone?

Sent from my BlackBerry
Yes the right threads are closer together and that's my biggest concern.
If it wasn't for the fact that those two holes lead to each other, it would be a lot easier to account for.

For those who have done this 100 times, it doesn't take long to do this task.
Setup is the longest part.
A lot of these things come second nature, but I figured I'd go through some check lists, hopefully remembered correctly.
I haven't ever done an insert repair to case head bolt threads although I chase them with a tap whenever the jugs are off.

Great idea to practice first. You need some flat stock aluminum comparable to the case material although that'd be hard to find.
Machine shops usually have plenty of scraps and may give a decent piece of aluminum to practice on.
Don't practice on iron / steel. It'll do you no good for learning for this application.
When you get the first hole done in practice, run a long test bolt into the hole down snug in the scrap sheet and use a speed square to measure several sides and see if the bolt is going to run straight
You can also run a short bolt into it to check if the underside of the head is flush with it when snugged up. That may be better.
Store bought bolts have a tendency to be warped / bent or other so that's not gonna be rocket science there especially longer ones but it happens on short ones also.
Repeat practice holes until you get that warm fuzzy.
When you start working on the case, don't flinch, trust yourself and just do it (after you've practiced of course).

Double check that the insert lengths will allow you to achieve depth on those two middle holes on the right case.
Calculate how much meat you're gonna have left between those two hole's inserts (OD edge to OD edge).
The inserts will need some meat between them (somehow).

Pack the Hell out of all crevices so you don't get shavings in the engine.
Packed / sealed well enough, blow all chips away with compressed air so they don't fall back into the engine once the packing is removed.

Drill straight but not too deep (90 degrees from the case).
Measure (twice) for the depth needed and mark that depth on the drill bit as a depth gauge.
You only need to drill to the depth of the insert.
Account for the chamfer on the end of the drill bit. The chamfered portion can not be included in your depth measurement.
Use a flat end bushing as a guide to help get a straight 90 degree hole.
Store bought bushings you'll find will not all be flush on the end.
Buy a few to compare for the most flush one you can find gauge from speed square or other on various sides.

Tap the threads straight with a bushing to help keep the threads 90 degrees to the case.
A bottoming tap should be included with the kit (the tapered end is barely noticeable compared to a tapered tap).
If not wait and buy one.
Don't try to tap all the threads per 1 hole at once.
Use some lube on the tap, preferably thick to cut with and thin to hose down the chips from the tap periodically.
You can use compressed air or brake cleaner to clean the drill bit and tap periodically also.
1/4 to 1/2 turns and back it out. clean, lube the tap and go back in.
Heat will be created while tapping so keep the tap lubed well.
Failure to lube the tap can lead to jagged cut threads and you'll be adding more damage pics to this thread later.
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  #86  
Old 14th December 2019
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a good investment..

one of these. will all but guarantee a straight hole. if you don't have a press and etc.. like i did .

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  #87  
Old 14th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddTigger View Post
a good investment..

one of these. will all but guarantee a straight hole. if you don't have a press and etc.. like i did .

aka "drill block". It will help to have a second pair of hands and eyes while you're drilling.
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  #88  
Old 14th December 2019
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Thanks Hippy, Red and Tomcat

That is all some really good advice. The biggest part of this will have to be patience and attention to detail.

I will be ordering the Timesert kit today and looking for a drill block as well.

I will keep this thread updated as I go the best I can. Thanks again to every one, I really appreciate all of the help!

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  #89  
Old 1 Week Ago
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UPDATE:

Ok so I had ordered the Time-Sert kit for the cylinder studs and got some extra inserts as well.

I even got a tap guide for using with the kit that will help to keep the tap in line.

However, the biggest concern I have is going to be when drilling the threads out and keeping the drill bit where it needs to be so I don't mess this up.

I even ordered a few different size tap guides to try but the drill bit is such an odd size even a drill block didn't seem to work.

I'm going to try and find a metric drill block because the drill bit seems to be about the same size as an M10 hardware.

But other than that I think that's everything I will need to have on hand to get this done.

I will take photos as much as I can and update as I get started with this project.

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  #90  
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You're going to have to hold tight to the guide with one hand and the drill with the other.
Not the best scenario but if you use a bushing, same thing.
If you clamp it with pliers / vise grips, you'll egg shape the bushing, possibly catching the bushing on the bit and spin it, marring up the cylinder mating surface.

Keep in mind the guide / bushing is only there to give you a visual of a 90 degree plane.
If you size the bushing too small of ID, the bit can catch on it if you lean one way or the other.
Once the bit gets inside the hole and starts cutting thru the threads, it'll follow that hole.
All you want to do is make sure the bit stays centered as it follows the hole.
You're not going to get anywhere close to a precision hole with a hand drill.
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