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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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bendix card, check valve

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  #1  
Old 19th August 2013
dsk1000 dsk1000 is offline
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Default How to remove the check valve from the Bendix carb

After rebuilding my Bendix carb, thought I'd share a method for removing the check valve from the bottom of the float bowl that worked for me. I read elsewhere to use needle nose pliers, which didn't work for me and others.

I used the but end of a 1/8" drill bit and gently rocked back and forth, then side to side (as shown in video), to loosen the check valve. Doing this gently, taking my time popped the check valve out quite easily. Hope this helps someone.

Edit: The check valve is delicate. This assumes you have a new check valve to replace the old one. Pushing the drill bit too far into the check valve will damage it. It can be removed in tact by making sure you only insert the drill bit into the solid body portion of the check valve.

Removing Check Valve from Bendix

Last edited by dsk1000; 19th August 2013 at 16:13.. Reason: spelling
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  #2  
Old 8th July 2016
MRX2099 MRX2099 is offline
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OK but since its pressed in how do I get the new one back in, I think I screwed mine up cause it would not go in easy so i tried some pliers to squeeze in in pressing on it and the bottom of the carb. I still have after a new carb rebuild kit, with the larger acc pump, what a friend called the "Mel Tillis stutter" I can crank the throttle easy all the way and it accelerates fine, but at certain levels of fast accelerating it seems like there is a place where it cuts out or stutters, I have a 74 Ironhead, I dont know if it makes a difference but I have straight small diameter drag pipes on the bike now
someone show how to replace the "check valve" and "get this stutter" out of the throttle/carb
thanks
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  #3  
Old 8th July 2016
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Fridge Fridge is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX2099 View Post
OK but since its pressed in how do I get the new one back in, I think I screwed mine up cause it would not go in easy so i tried some pliers to squeeze in in pressing on it and the bottom of the carb. I still have after a new carb rebuild kit, with the larger acc pump, what a friend called the "Mel Tillis stutter" I can crank the throttle easy all the way and it accelerates fine, but at certain levels of fast accelerating it seems like there is a place where it cuts out or stutters, I have a 74 Ironhead, I dont know if it makes a difference but I have straight small diameter drag pipes on the bike now
someone show how to replace the "check valve" and "get this stutter" out of the throttle/carb
thanks
The thread "drag pipe reversion?" that is pretty recent(in past days or so) went over a lot about those small diameter drag pipes, the cuts of them and the problems that may or may not be associated with them.

Here it is, I found it:

http://xlforum.net/forums/s...1981654&page=7
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  #4  
Old 9th July 2016
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The check valve prevents the back-flow of fuel from the accelerator pump to the bowl. If your check valve is not working you will not get a good squirt of fuel from the accelerator pump. The fuel would either be prevented from entering the accelerator pump circuit or the fuel may get pushed back from the accelerator pump into the bowl instead of squirting into the air-stream in the carb throat. It is easy to see visually.

A stutter could be ignition related, intake leak, jetting, float level, debris in fuel filter, etc...

I would even check the condition of the main jet O-ring.

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Old 9th July 2016
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRX2099 View Post
how do I get the new one back in
What worked for me was, press down hard with your thumbs. Get one edge of the check valve started, with carb base on a solid surface, press down with one thumb, then place 2nd thumb on top of first & press down hard. That should get it to pop into place. At least that is what worked for me.

As far as stutter goes..... I always start my carb troubleshooting by crawling thru my ignition. In particular, get the points set right, ensure the advance mechanism is working right, and then put a timing light on it. If timing is on the money, only then do I start looking the carb. 90% of suspected carb problems are ignition.
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